Persian holiday

The sign outside an unassuming Coeur d’Alene-area coffee stand, just down from the Fairgrounds, reads “Persian food.”

Yet BABAK KABAB serves more than just Persian (Iranian) food. And the hand-drawn billboard pointing toward the oversized espresso and coffee stand is more than just a sign: It’s a sign of the times for this town that was better known 10 to 15 years ago for beer and burgers and bulls — no offense intended, and bearing in mind that downtown Coeur d’Alene has been home to ethnic eclecticism far longer than any venues up Government Way.

Inside, Amber and Babak Haidari serve up breakfast, lunch and dinner with a United Nations of flavors that cater to the drive-through crowd on this busy street. Breakfast is a bagel, apple-pecan pancake rollup, biscuits and gravy, or a wrap (aka a Mexican burrito, or else the Persian wrap with feta and tomato) for less than $4. Espressos and coffees are served all day. Lunch could be the all-American dog, chili with cheese or PB&J ($2-$3).

But the attention-getter is the kabab — broiled meat on a skewer, which in Persian cooking is a long, flat-metal strip. Kubideh is ground beef seasoned with onion and formed onto the skewer, while jujeh is chicken. Lamb is available on Fridays. Kababs are available as a sandwich ($5.25) or meal ($7.25), which includes fluffy, mildly flavored white rice, stewed tomatoes, and a tart yogurt sauce similar to Greek tzatziki.

Outside, the savory smell of grilling meat surrounds the shop, where Babak re-creates recipes he learned from his restaurant-owning parents while growing up in Iran. In nearby Turkey, Babak met Amber — they were helping earthquake victims — and several countries and two adorable kids later, they find themselves embarking on this new American dream of owning their own restaurant.

It’s as modest a beginning as Babak’s self-engineered rise from dishwasher to head cook to restaurateur. And although they’ve only been open two months, they’ve been delighted to discover members of the Armenian, Iranian and even Lebanese communities, even as the community is delighting in discovering them.
— CARRIE SCOZZARO

Babak Kabab, 3023 Government Way, Coeur d’Alene, is open Mon-Fri 9 am-6:30 pm, and some Saturdays. Catering and phone-in orders available. Call (208) 704-0554.