Updating traditions

Even though the Spokane Club isn’t open to the general public, we thought it noteworthy to mention — especially so soon after the holidays, when members might be gathering there with visitors — that the club recently revamped its Lobby restaurant, changing the name to BURGUNDY’S along the way. Many of the changes aren’t necessarily visible, like a zoned HVAC system and updated sound, but they will help keep diners more comfortable. The club also added portable room dividers and beveled glass booth separators to increase diners’ privacy.
A lot of the changes happened on the menu, says Executive Chef Ray Delfino. He and Chef de Cuisine Kelly Thornton updated the offerings — retaining favorites while adding newer flavors to the mix. At lunchtime, you’ll still find the Kobe burger and the crab Louie salad, but there’s also a Thai chicken wrap and new salads including a caprese and a surprising pear and goat cheese salad: red leaf lettuce with soft goat cheese, toasted walnuts and lightly grilled pear slices (with a hint of smoky flavor) dressed in olive oil and lime.

“When I first came here from Seattle, I was told Spokane was a real meat-and-potatoes kind of town,” Delfino says. “And it was true. But now that’s changing.”

The dinner menu features new entrées like Tuscan chicken with rosemary, a bison New York steak, and the delicate cocoa butter sea scallops — a simple preparation of seared jumbo scallops in a light lemon sauce, with a sprinkle of white chocolate adding a subtle sweetness to complement the scallops’ naturally sweet flavor. But tradition still holds sway: The Kobe top sirloin steak, classic Kobe meatloaf and weekend prime rib are mainstays.

Like other chefs in the area, Delfino is paying attention to where his food comes from and trying to use local and sustainable sources as much as possible — while running a culinary department that may have to cater dinner for 350 on any given day. He’s on the phone, ordering wild sockeye salmon direct from the fisherman for the balsamic-glazed sockeye entrée, a dish designed to be heart-healthy and consistent with the club’s identity as an athletic club.

“In food, there’s nothing new,” says Delfino. “It’s all been around before. But it’s all about how you put it on the plate and make people happy.”

Burgundy’s at the Spokane Club, 1001 W. Riverside, is open to members and their guests. Call 838-8511.