A new roast

Here one day, gone the next. That’s not unusual in the restaurant business, even more so in challenging economic times. It happens to the best of places, even RUSTLER’S ROOST, which has stood at Hayden Avenue and Highway 95 in Hayden, Idaho, since 1991. It was the second of two locations for owner Daren McEvers and his brother Woody. The original downtown Coeur d’Alene location (opened in the ’80s) closed some years back, but the Highway 95 location and the catering business continued, flourishing as a local favorite.

So when the owner of the Hayden building announced plans to sell, the brothers considered their options. Buy and renovate, or build new? Nothing penciled out, though, says Woody McEvers, who is also a Coeur d’Alene city councilman. Then the opportunity arose to relocate just across the parking lot from the old location, giving travelers on Highway 95 reason to do a double take as if the Roost just up and… uh, flew the coop.

Although they no longer have banquet facilities, says McEvers, working with the developer allowed them to maintain the rustic feel of the old place while installing all new, more efficient kitchen equipment. They reused or rebuilt most of the old furniture, carrying over all the western antiques and saloon-style decorations.

The familiar smell of Market Spice Tea — from Seattle’s Pike Place Market, and available for purchase, along with Rustler’s own brand of barbecue sauce — will entice you. On a Sunday, bring the paper and sip your coffee as you wait for a booth or seat along the counter. It’s a low-key locale that’s big on service and making you feel at home.

Down-home style is their specialty. The “famous country breakfast” is served all day ($5-$10), with names like the Rawhide or Wrangler (three eggs, four bacon strips, home fries, biscuits and gravy) and tasty eggs benedict atop slow-cooked pit ham. Lunch is burgers, sandwiches, house-made soup or chili, salads and platters of home-style treats like meatloaf or roast turkey (most $6-$8). The only change you will see someday soon is the return of dinner service several days a week, with items like the popular barbecue ribs — served up with a smile, of course.

— CARRIE SCOZZARO

Rustler’s Roost, 9627 N. Highway 95, Hayden, Idaho, is open daily 6 am-2 pm. Visit www.rustlersroost.com or call (208) 772-6613.