Just relax...

With its sleek black furniture, mirrored bar and elegant crystal chandeliers, the new LEFTBANK WINE BAR appears quite formal. But don’t be deceived: With a glass of Cougar Crest Viognier ($7.50) in hand and Norah Jones playing softly in the background, I wanted to slip off my shoes and put my feet up on the plush, red velvet love seat. I restrained myself and concentrated instead on my bruschetta with Gorgonzola and honey ($8), which was delightful paired with the wine. Buddies meeting for a beer, girlfriends catching up and two moms with a babe in stroller all looked equally relaxed. LeftBank is the kind of place that gives a city its urban feel.

The wine menu offers 60 wines by the glass, most in the $5 to $7 range, and a dozen beers. Owner and sommelier Aaron Kelly helped me navigate the list and poured me a taste of the Cougar Crest before I decided. LeftBank’s extensive wine list offers familiar favorites like Barnard Griffin and Kim Crawford, boutique wines selected with the help of wine manager Jen Nichols from Walla Walla, and several dessert wines.

LeftBank opens at 8 am, serving Craven’s coffee and scones from Taste Café. An all-day menu includes panini sandwiches and salads ($7-$8), as well as an antipasto plate ($9) featuring prosciutto and salami from Santé. Desserts, including chocolate mousse, are from Just American Desserts. “We try to support as many local businesses as we can,” says Kelly.

The grand opening event is set for Saturday, May 30 — “meet the winemaker” during the day, and listen to live music at night.

LeftBank offers cheese plates to go along with the wines, giving wine-pairing suggestions for each cheese. The cheese menu provides phonetic pronunciation, so go ahead — order the Taleggio (tah-LEH-joe), a semi-soft Italian cheese, and a glass of Zardetto Prosecco.

Kelly and his wife Katrina want to create a place where people can try different wines in a non-threatening way and linger in a relaxed environment. I think they have succeeded.

— KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

LeftBank Wine Bar, 108 N. Washington St., is open Mon-Fri, 8 am to late, and Sat 3 pm to late. Call 315-8623.