Recently opened AGAVE LATIN BISTRO is a partnership between Ian Wingate (owner of the nearby Moxie restaurant) and Sergio DeLeon, owner of DeLeon’s Mexican Deli. Formerly Bluefish and briefly Aqua, Agave’s cool aqua walls and sleek black and chrome furniture give the place a hip, high-tech feeling. Friendly service, candles and miniature cacti on the tables make Agave warm and inviting.
“We use his [DeLeon’s] ingredients incorporated into my style,” Wingate explains. The warm chips are made from DeLeon’s tortillas and accompanied by a demi-tasse of salsa, made from DeLeon’s recipe.
The starter menu ($4-$14) includes grilled smoked paprika prawns, ceviche, and several salads, including a pear and arugula salad with prickly pear cactus vinaigrette. You’ll also find gazpacho and Spicy Tequila Lime chicken soup.
Taco plates ($12-$14) are served with DeLeon’s rustic rice, tortillas and a choice of mild rancho beans or spicy Cuban black beans. For fillings, you can choose from chipotle grilled tofu, ancho grilled chicken, steak or fish tacos. Garnished with lime crème fraîche, fresh peppers and cilantro, the tacos rate a notch above standard Mexican fare for their colorful and artful presentation.
The Wild Boar Chile Verde ($14) was simmered to buttery perfection in a tomatillo sauce with green peppers and cilantro. Accompanied by rice, rancho beans with peppers, warm tortillas and a crunchy cabbage slaw, it tasted as good as it looked. Peruvian Seafood Cioppino, Lobster Paella, tequila-and-cactus-braised short ribs, and duck breast with chorizo sausage risotto round out the menu, with plans to add a late-night tapas menu soon.
Desserts include flan, cheesecake and chocolate cake, made at DeLeon’s bakery.
If you are a tequila lover, you’re in luck. Try the popular bright pink Prickly Pear margarita with cactus juice, or one of Agave’s 25 tequilas, including a caramel-flavored one. Wingate plans to increase the selection to number 100 varieties.
Agave combines DeLeon’s solid Mexican flavors with Wingate’s upscale style. The resulting Latin fusion is a welcome and refreshing addition to Spokane’s dining scene. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON
Agave Latin Bistro and Tequila Bar, 830 W. Sprague, is open Tue-Sat, 4 pm-midnight. Call 473-9180.
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