Catch the wave

“There’s no surfing in Riverside.” That was one memorable advertisement for In-N-Out Burgers, California’s first hamburger drive-thru. While there’s no surfing in Rathdrum, Idaho, either, SURF CITY BURGERS serves up classic American cuisine — burgers, dogs, fried food — like you might find at mom-and-pop stands along the beach.

Owner Gary Kender — who used to surf as a young man in his native Huntington Beach, Calif. — features a burger style as emblematic of the West Coast as White Castle (square) burgers are of the East. Basic burgers start at an unbelievable $2.49. The double-double is a 4-inch stack of 100 percent beef, with or without onions, and all the trimmings — aka, animal style ($3.75; combo, $5.75).

Surf City Burgers — also expanding to Post Falls in the next month or so — appeals to nostalgia. Try Philly cheesesteaks ($6, combo), jumbo dogs ($2.25), real ice cream shakes and malts ($2.50-$3) and burger options that include bacon-cheese, mushroom-Swiss, pastrami, chili and — of course — Hawaiian.

The surfer theme is typical for Kender, who started Longboard Burgers in Coeur d’Alene (now run by his ex-wife) and owned Schoonerville — with its Hawaiian mural — in Hayden for 13 years. And he likes having those local connections. Housed inside Stein’s IGA (in a space he shares with Subway), Surf City offers discounts to nearby Lakeland students. Most meals, however, are already affordable: 13 combos under $5, nothing more than $6.

It’s all about low prices but good quality. Kender hand-breads his chicken strips, finger steaks and onion rings ($3-$5). And he cuts fresh potatoes for his fries — which, like most things on the menu, can be ordered with chili.

Convenience is another big draw. They average a four-minute response time, says Kender, smiling as he recognizes a customer approaching, calling his order out even before the gentleman gets to the counter. Yes, it’s that kind of place, like family.

“Food is about family,” he agrees, noting that he cooks gourmet, sit-down meals for his five children every night. “I’m passionate about food, about everything I do.”

— CARRIE SCOZZARO

Surf City Burgers, 16102 North Hwy. 41 (inside Stein’s IGA), Rathdrum, Idaho, is open Mon-Sat 11 am-7 pm, Sun 11 am-4 pm. Call (208) 687-0492.