Turn it over

Behind the beautiful, shiny new kiosk housed just inside the newly constructed Catholic Charities building is the NEW LEAF BAKERY CAFÉ, the public face of an employment and job-skill enhancement program for homeless and low-income women, operated by Transitions.

The women receive individualized training in food services — both front and back of house — while producing reasonably priced pastries and salads (organic and sustainable, when feasible).

It’s about living in right relationship.

Doma — fair trade, certified organic — is the coffee of choice, be it drip ($1.50, 12 oz.) or my 16-ounce iced hazelnut mocha ($4), which was deliciously robust with a just-right blend of coffee, chocolate and hazelnut.

A perfect accompaniment is the Signature Cookie ($0.75): huge peanuts, dried cherries, chocolate chips and flakes of coconut, all baked together in a sweet and crumbly dough. “It’s the best of everything,” says café manager Kristen Speller.

Speller trains women in front-of-house operations — customer service, dishing up food, making lattes, and making change. “I’m giving back, because life’s been good to me,” she says with a wide smile.

In keeping with the notion of right relationship and caring for the Earth, you won’t find boutique water here. “I don’t believe in bottled water,” says Speller, citing numerous problems caused by the ubiquitous plastic containers. She reluctantly carries a small selection of bottled juices, but to-go cups and utensils are biodegradable, and there are glass plates, cups and bowls for in-house dining.

The café menu is a work in progress with several rotating choices including fresh fruit salad, pasta salads and one of my favorites, fresh pea salad ($3.50/$4.50). Made with smoky bacon, sliced celery, bits of red onion and lots of fresh peas in a mayo-based dressing, this is reminiscent of the best summer potluck fare.

A fine choice with any of the salads is a fist-sized roll ($1.75) made from challah bread. Rich with eggs, it has a light, airy texture that’s slightly sweet and yeasty. “It makes a beautiful sandwich,” says Chef-instructor Vira Melendez-Redman.

The café is opening “softly,” with a grand opening planned later in May. The dining area will be dedicated to the memory of former Spokane Catholic Charities Director Donna Hanson, who died of cancer in 2005. Begun with grants, the training program aims to become self-sustaining through revenue from the café and catering service.

Suddenly it hit me that I’m not just eating well by being here. I’m doing good.

— M.C. PAUL

New Leaf Bakery Café, 12 E. Fifth Ave (in the new Catholic Charities building), is open Mon-Fri 8 am-1 pm. Visit help4women.org or call 496-7298. (For catering information, call 496-0396.)