Don't worry, be happy

Don’t let the name fool you: GRUMPY’S will put a smile on your face for numerous reasons. First, it’s the joint venture of Coeur d’Alene restaurant veteran Joe Chapman and Dana Musick, former owner of Kellogg’s Veranda B&B. Chapman’s claim to fame (besides being a noted architectural force in downtown Coeur d’Alene) was being at the helm of Henry’s, a dearly missed eclectic eatery on Sherman Avenue that served the best cioppino this side of San Francisco.

Second, Grumpy’s brings you big-city style via Chef Garad Crawford, originally from Kellogg, whose pedigree includes the Coeur d’Alene Resort and 16 years in the City By the Bay. Making his rounds, Crawford stopped to chat and greet diners, many of whom he seemed to know by name. It’s that kind of good word-of-mouth place.

That’s good news, since the former eatery in this midtown Fourth Street locale, Bambino’s, went bada-bing, bada-bust. Located across from Capone’s Sports Bar, Grumpy’s fills the local bistro niche well with its small, yet well-appointed menu and interior of warm colors, semi-open kitchen view and nice corner fireplace (from Henry’s). Seasonal outdoor dining is also available.
For dinner, appetizers might be baked artichokes in mushroom-wine sauce or coconut prawns with apricot-horseradish sauce (both $8). Pair that with a glass of J. Lohr Reisling ($5.75, glass; $19, bottle) or bottle of Drop Top Amber ($3.50). Follow with the hot spinach salad ($9) or dive into their halibut and chips ($10).

The sautéed prawns with linguine ($17) had ample shrimp, mushrooms, onion, tomato, white wine and cream tossed into linguine. The broiled salmon, brown rice and veggies ($17) also looked good, as did the 11-ounce sirloin with baked potato, rice or fries, and veggies ($16).
The lunch and to-go menu is a bevy of broiled burgers, salads and sandwiches like the grilled cheese with cheddar, pepper jack, bacon and fresh tomato ($7). Save room for dessert since Musick makes all the gelato fresh ($2.75/$4), and fresh pie is always available. — CARRIE SCOZZARO

Grumpy’s, 726 N. Fourth St., Coeur d’Alene, is open Mon-Sat 11 am–9 pm. Dinner reservations recommended. Call (208) 667-1717.