Gangster Rolls

Junior Solis thinks big. After announcing in spring 2006 that he wanted to open a sushi restaurant in Sandpoint, he created OISHII, which occupied 300 square feet of space in the former Café Trinity location. In spring 2009, when Café Trinity relocated, Solis saw a 3,600-square-foot opportunity. Less than a month later, Solis and his energetic crew moved across the street into what is fast becoming a destination dining location, where Solis serves up what he calls “fine dining without the attitude.”

Newly painted lime green (wasabi green?), the new Oishii sports full-length, covered outdoor seating and a 1920s motif that reflects the former Pastime building’s hotel history. Inside, Solis has artfully combined mobster memorabilia, bold colors and contemporary furnishings for a sexy, upbeat space that’s welcoming yet classy. The bar, for example, is original and top-shelf, stocked by Wine Spectator-award winner and former Wine Sellers owner Jack Eaves. The sushi bar features sea-life murals and a sushi chef-cam. A cozy lounge area beckons with plush seating, while upfront tables are set with white linens and custom glassware.

The biggest changes are in the kitchen. Joining Solis is Nathan Steinbauer, whose background includes Le Cordon Bleu training. Young and equally passionate about food, Steinbauer has contributed tapas like Nachos Tartare ($12) with tuna ceviche and gouda sauce, seared thin-slice Japanese Kobe beef with caramelized shallots and Port wine reduction ($30), and cider-poached prawns with apple salsa ($13).

The original “sushi” menu has been expanded, offering nearly a dozen nigiri/sashimi selections and twice that number of rolls — such as the Black Widow, with soft-shell crab ($14) — plus poke, tempura and omakase or chef’s choice platters.

Late-night dining is encouraged, with libations that will have you saying m-m-m for martinis, mojitos and margaritas, as well as traditional sake (prices vary).

In his red chef’s jacket and black fedora matching the gangster graphics on the wall, Solis is meticulous, listing enhancements to the menu, décor and service, which he says should only be “tipped” if it is excellent.

Notes the Seattle Art Institute graduate and former food critic: “We’re just trying to set the bar.”

Oishii, 209 N. First Ave., Sandpoint, Idaho, is open Sun-Thu 11:30 am–11 pm, Fri-Sat 11:30 am-2 am. Reservations recommended. Call (208) 263-1406.