Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Lake City scratch

The owners of Scratch had an itch to expand from their original and highly successful Spokane restaurant, much to the delight of Coeur d’Alene diners. Although many mourned the loss of Le Piastre (this Fifth and Sherman location has hosted a long list of eateries), SCRATCH promises to fill the small niche of moderately priced upscale dining locations downtown.

Named for its claim to make all things from “scratch,” the restaurant focuses on freshness, innovation, presentation, service and seasonal ingredients — all the hallmarks of bistro cuisine, which has come to include multi-ethnic elements and an increasingly eclectic menu.

There are Asian influences, like the (Japanese) Kobe beef tacos ($11), the tri-tip with creamed Yukon gold potatoes and Burgundy veal au-jus ($25), or the Asian Reuben with soy-cured corned beef ($9). Europe is represented in the Italian panini with mortadella sausage, sopressata and coppa salami, roasted red peppers, mozzarella and fresh basil ($9) and the wild-mushroom ravioli with spinach and beurre blanc sauce. From the Mediterranean, hummus appears as an appetizer ($7) and in the vegetarian wrap with roasted garlic, Kalamata olives, Roma tomatoes and English cucumber ($11), while the chicken with bucatini pasta features a hearty mix of Kalamata, caperberries, sundried tomatoes, onions, Feta cheese, mushrooms, red peppers, basil and white-wine lemon sauce ($14). American cuisine is reflected in the hot pot — scallops, prawns, lobster, clams, Andouille sausage, spices and fingerling potatoes ($25) — and dishes like the half-rack house-smoked ribs with huckleberry sauce ($14) or the wild salmon ($16).

The décor, ambience and menu at Coeur d’Alene’s Scratch, according to chef and former Coeur d’Alene High School graduate Jason Rex, is similar to Spokane’s. CdA Scratch offers some Spokane staples — like the crispy duck lettuce wraps with ponzu sauce, cilantro, onion, peppers, and cashews ($10) — yet has a much larger lunch menu than Spokane and favors beer and wine only.

What’s next for Rex and business partner Connie Naccarato? More territory, according to Rex, who wants to franchise the restaurant someday. Until then, he’s splitting his time between the two locations, hoping that Scratch will make its mark permanent in downtown Coeur d’Alene.

— CARRIE SCOZZARO

Scratch, 507 E. Sherman Ave., Coeur d’Alene, is open Sun-Thu 11 am-10 pm, Fri-Sat 11 am-midnight. Visit scratchspokane.com or call (208) 930-4762.

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