Far too many paranoid souls shudder at the mention of taco trucks. I, on the other hand, nearly swerve into oncoming traffic in excitement when I see a new taco truck parked alongside the road. Yet even I was a bit skeptical when a new truck appeared on North Division in the spot formerly occupied by one of the two Tacos Tumbras trucks.
My skepticism stemmed from the name spray-painted on the truck: “PATTY’S TACOS.” Accuse me of culinary racial profiling if you must, but I would have stopped the very first time I saw the new truck if the name on the side had been Eduardo, José or María. But every Patty I knew growing up in Montana made tacos with hard shells, ground beef and cheddar cheese.
I was wrong. There are two Pattys in the family that owns the truck: Patty Pineda and Patty Ramirez. Jonas Lopez manages the truck, but decided to name it after his cousin and his sister-in-law who split the cooking with him. Patty Pineda was at the grill the day I stopped, and the family truck is a brilliant addition to our local fleet. In fact, if you love Mexican food, drop what you are doing this instant and head for Division and Garland for a $1.25 Alambre taco piled with steak, grilled peppers and onions, and melted mozzarella. It is like a heavenly mini fajita. Add a dash of Patty’s hot sauce and pico de gallo (request both from the cooler), or eat it straight up. Muy delicioso. Then return to the window and repeat after me: “Uno mas, por favor.”
The two Pattys and Jonas also serve up a mean torta (a Mexican sandwich served on a bun with the meat of your choice for $4.50) and other authentic standards like burritos, sopes, huaraches, quesadillas and enchiladas. They also offer something less standard and quite welcome: vegetarian options. — KEVIN FINCH
Patty’s Tacos, parked on Division between Garland and Walton, is open daily 10 am-8 pm. Call 217-2504.
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