Henry Cao emigrated from Vietnam to the United States in 1996 and does well with help from his friends. The owner/manager of PHO VAN says he opened a bistro rather than a restaurant because, “My best friend said I should have something different.” The cooks are, he says, “my two friends.”
The space is an East-meets-West décor of black and white chairs, black tables, a fabric-covered wall, and lined dupioni silk drapes, all complemented by elegant floral arrangements and accents. “My friend at Madison Home helped,” he says. “I worked for him for five years. He’s a good guy.”
The spring roll appetizer ($3.50 for two, with dipping sauce) was some of the freshest I’ve seen in Spokane: The rolls’ tight, moist wrappers scarcely masked whole basil leaves while whole shrimp snuggled next to cool rice vermicelli.
My bowl of bun thit nuong cha gio ($8.75) was an experiment in gastronomic geology, with strata and substrata of colors, textures and temperatures. The top right quadrant was a generous portion of hot, thinly sliced, charbroiled pork (nuong), which encroached ever so slightly onto the cold, diagonally sliced cucumber portion. It was flanked on either side by a crispy-hot egg roll (cha gio) sliced into four pieces. Below this layer, to the right, was the nest of warm rice vermicelli (bun), and to the left, a section of cold, crunchy, bean sprouts and iceberg lettuce shreds. The whole thing was topped with bits of green onion and chopped, roasted peanuts, along with a bowl of spicy-sweet dressing that contained hints of fish sauce, vinegar and the kick of red pepper flakes.
The portion size ensured that even after 10 minutes of eating, with minimal conversation and the occasional sip of hot green tea, my bowl looked only a little less full than when I started.
Server Adelle Hurst says, “I love customer service and I love working with food and knowing people like the food.” Her favorite menu item? “Probably the pho, the No. 8 — with beef broth, rice noodles, round steak, meatball and tendon [$8]. It’s really good with the hoisin and Sriracha [chili paste]. It’ll just perk you right up.”
Perfect for a cold winter day, and enough to share with a friend.
— M.C. PAUL
Pho Van: A Vietnamese Bistro, at 2909 N. Division, is open Mon-Thu 10 am-9 pm, Fri-Sat 10 am-10 pm, Sun 10 am-8 pm. Call 326-6470.
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Persian holiday
The sign outside an unassuming Coeur d’Alene-area coffee stand, just down from the Fairgrounds, reads “Persian food.”
Yet BABAK KABAB serves more than just Persian (Iranian) food. And the hand-drawn billboard pointing toward the oversized espresso and coffee stand is more than just a sign: It’s a sign of the times for this town that was better known 10 to 15 years ago for beer and burgers and bulls — no offense intended, and bearing in mind that downtown Coeur d’Alene has been home to ethnic eclecticism far longer than any venues up Government Way.
Inside, Amber and Babak Haidari serve up breakfast, lunch and dinner with a United Nations of flavors that cater to the drive-through crowd on this busy street. Breakfast is a bagel, apple-pecan pancake rollup, biscuits and gravy, or a wrap (aka a Mexican burrito, or else the Persian wrap with feta and tomato) for less than $4. Espressos and coffees are served all day. Lunch could be the all-American dog, chili with cheese or PB&J ($2-$3).
But the attention-getter is the kabab — broiled meat on a skewer, which in Persian cooking is a long, flat-metal strip. Kubideh is ground beef seasoned with onion and formed onto the skewer, while jujeh is chicken. Lamb is available on Fridays. Kababs are available as a sandwich ($5.25) or meal ($7.25), which includes fluffy, mildly flavored white rice, stewed tomatoes, and a tart yogurt sauce similar to Greek tzatziki.
Outside, the savory smell of grilling meat surrounds the shop, where Babak re-creates recipes he learned from his restaurant-owning parents while growing up in Iran. In nearby Turkey, Babak met Amber — they were helping earthquake victims — and several countries and two adorable kids later, they find themselves embarking on this new American dream of owning their own restaurant.
It’s as modest a beginning as Babak’s self-engineered rise from dishwasher to head cook to restaurateur. And although they’ve only been open two months, they’ve been delighted to discover members of the Armenian, Iranian and even Lebanese communities, even as the community is delighting in discovering them.
— CARRIE SCOZZARO
Babak Kabab, 3023 Government Way, Coeur d’Alene, is open Mon-Fri 9 am-6:30 pm, and some Saturdays. Catering and phone-in orders available. Call (208) 704-0554.
Yet BABAK KABAB serves more than just Persian (Iranian) food. And the hand-drawn billboard pointing toward the oversized espresso and coffee stand is more than just a sign: It’s a sign of the times for this town that was better known 10 to 15 years ago for beer and burgers and bulls — no offense intended, and bearing in mind that downtown Coeur d’Alene has been home to ethnic eclecticism far longer than any venues up Government Way.
Inside, Amber and Babak Haidari serve up breakfast, lunch and dinner with a United Nations of flavors that cater to the drive-through crowd on this busy street. Breakfast is a bagel, apple-pecan pancake rollup, biscuits and gravy, or a wrap (aka a Mexican burrito, or else the Persian wrap with feta and tomato) for less than $4. Espressos and coffees are served all day. Lunch could be the all-American dog, chili with cheese or PB&J ($2-$3).
But the attention-getter is the kabab — broiled meat on a skewer, which in Persian cooking is a long, flat-metal strip. Kubideh is ground beef seasoned with onion and formed onto the skewer, while jujeh is chicken. Lamb is available on Fridays. Kababs are available as a sandwich ($5.25) or meal ($7.25), which includes fluffy, mildly flavored white rice, stewed tomatoes, and a tart yogurt sauce similar to Greek tzatziki.
Outside, the savory smell of grilling meat surrounds the shop, where Babak re-creates recipes he learned from his restaurant-owning parents while growing up in Iran. In nearby Turkey, Babak met Amber — they were helping earthquake victims — and several countries and two adorable kids later, they find themselves embarking on this new American dream of owning their own restaurant.
It’s as modest a beginning as Babak’s self-engineered rise from dishwasher to head cook to restaurateur. And although they’ve only been open two months, they’ve been delighted to discover members of the Armenian, Iranian and even Lebanese communities, even as the community is delighting in discovering them.
— CARRIE SCOZZARO
Babak Kabab, 3023 Government Way, Coeur d’Alene, is open Mon-Fri 9 am-6:30 pm, and some Saturdays. Catering and phone-in orders available. Call (208) 704-0554.
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Rock on
Mark Henriksen just can’t stay away from a good thing. The originator of Slick Rock Burrito sold his South Hill shop to manager Jeff Maupin a couple of years ago; last year, manager Tim Lannigan and partner Patti Tully (of Baby Bar fame) took over the downtown shop and changed the name to Neato Burrito.
Now the once-and-future burrito entrepreneur has opened his third Slick Rock Burrito enterprise, this time on Northwest Boulevard near Audubon Park (in the former Cielo Bakery location), where the majority of businesses are locally owned. “It kinda has that feel to it among the business owners,” says Henriksen. “They’re very supportive of each other, and I like that.”
He also likes doing the planning, ordering and cooking, and he knows his menu literally inside and out. The Website HappyCow.net rates Slick Rock as a vegan-friendly option, he says with pride. “Nothing has a meat or dairy product that isn’t specifically obvious,” he says. “The fajita veggies don’t have any meat or dairy, and none of the marinades do either.”
And yet, sadly, there is no tofu option on the menu. “We don’t have room for more ingredients,” he says. Granted, there is a full lineup of other choices, and in the spirit of full disclosure I am neither vegan nor veterinarian; I just really like tofu.
“When people think ‘burrito’ they think Mexican restaurant, but we’ve never positioned ourselves as Mexican,” Henriksen says. “We like to incorporate the flavors of the Southwest with roasted peppers and fresh-made salsas, and using chipotle peppers and marinades.”
My Thai chicken burrito ($6.50) was listed as a “specialty burrito” — as opposed to the “build-your-own” variety — and it was a tasty two-handed meal by itself. Starting with a spinach tortilla warmed in a steamer, Henriksen heaps on generous amounts of lime-cilantro rice, black beans, marinated chicken breast, shredded cheese, crunchy cabbage, sour cream and Thai peanut sauce for a spicy punch. The chicken was tasty but felt rather superfluous amid all the other good stuff.
Next time, I will probably opt for the Veggie Thai ($6) — maybe I’ll give that vegetarian thing a try. — M.C. PAUL
Slick Rock Burrito, 1908 W. Northwest Blvd., is open Mon-Fri 11 am-7:30 pm, Sat noon-6 pm. Call 327-0720.
Now the once-and-future burrito entrepreneur has opened his third Slick Rock Burrito enterprise, this time on Northwest Boulevard near Audubon Park (in the former Cielo Bakery location), where the majority of businesses are locally owned. “It kinda has that feel to it among the business owners,” says Henriksen. “They’re very supportive of each other, and I like that.”
He also likes doing the planning, ordering and cooking, and he knows his menu literally inside and out. The Website HappyCow.net rates Slick Rock as a vegan-friendly option, he says with pride. “Nothing has a meat or dairy product that isn’t specifically obvious,” he says. “The fajita veggies don’t have any meat or dairy, and none of the marinades do either.”
And yet, sadly, there is no tofu option on the menu. “We don’t have room for more ingredients,” he says. Granted, there is a full lineup of other choices, and in the spirit of full disclosure I am neither vegan nor veterinarian; I just really like tofu.
“When people think ‘burrito’ they think Mexican restaurant, but we’ve never positioned ourselves as Mexican,” Henriksen says. “We like to incorporate the flavors of the Southwest with roasted peppers and fresh-made salsas, and using chipotle peppers and marinades.”
My Thai chicken burrito ($6.50) was listed as a “specialty burrito” — as opposed to the “build-your-own” variety — and it was a tasty two-handed meal by itself. Starting with a spinach tortilla warmed in a steamer, Henriksen heaps on generous amounts of lime-cilantro rice, black beans, marinated chicken breast, shredded cheese, crunchy cabbage, sour cream and Thai peanut sauce for a spicy punch. The chicken was tasty but felt rather superfluous amid all the other good stuff.
Next time, I will probably opt for the Veggie Thai ($6) — maybe I’ll give that vegetarian thing a try. — M.C. PAUL
Slick Rock Burrito, 1908 W. Northwest Blvd., is open Mon-Fri 11 am-7:30 pm, Sat noon-6 pm. Call 327-0720.
A broast fan
If you’re already a fan of fried food — and millions of Americans are — you’ll agree it’s tough to improve upon it. That aroma of bubbling oil, the sound of the crispy exterior snapping open to reveal a juicy interior of white meat, fresh fish or a bite of potato? How could anyone make it better?
And yet THE CHICKEN BASKET in Coeur d’Alene is attempting to do just that — improving this fundamental foodstuff by broaching the subject of broasting instead of frying. Their “fried” chicken, fish and other finger foods are, they claim, lower in fat than traditional frying, according to owners Darron and Jill Cole.
“Genuine Broasted® chicken,” their menu notes, “... is carefully marinated and coated with specially formulated Broaster® ingredients.” The aforementioned cooking device is actually a patented combination of pressure cooking and frying for foods that have been first marinated then breaded. Although the process is similar to that used at chain restaurants (such as KFC), only locations that have purchased the licensed Broaster® can actually claim to serve this broasted food.
As the Chicken Basket menu explains, the Broaster cooks “each individual piece of chicken ‘under pressure’ in the chicken’s own natural juices, limiting the absorption of cooking oil and driving the marinade deep down to the bone while searing the chicken with a golden crispy-crunchy coating.”
“Not too greasy,” agreed my partner who, like so many of us in our youth, worked at a fast-food chain (namely KFC).
Also on the menu: gizzards ($5-$8), chicken or fish kids meal ($4-$6), and chicken strips ($7).
The place is casual, as expected, with a quirky hot-rod/chicken-art theme and ‘50s music in the background.
While we weren’t expecting the 15-plus minutes it took for our order of fish and chips ($9) or breast and wing (which includes fries, slaw and a roll for $8.50), broasting actually takes less time than frying, and all orders are cooked fresh.
We could have placed the order to go using a menu that offers buckets from 10 pieces ($29) to 200 pieces ($355), which begs the question: Who would order that much chicken? A really big, big fan of fried food, I guess. — CARRIE SCOZZARO
Chicken Basket, 601 Northwest Blvd., Coeur d’Alene, is open Sun-Thu 11 am-8:30 pm, and Fri-Sat 11 am-9 pm. Visit chickenbasketcda.com or call (208) 665-7407.
And yet THE CHICKEN BASKET in Coeur d’Alene is attempting to do just that — improving this fundamental foodstuff by broaching the subject of broasting instead of frying. Their “fried” chicken, fish and other finger foods are, they claim, lower in fat than traditional frying, according to owners Darron and Jill Cole.
“Genuine Broasted® chicken,” their menu notes, “... is carefully marinated and coated with specially formulated Broaster® ingredients.” The aforementioned cooking device is actually a patented combination of pressure cooking and frying for foods that have been first marinated then breaded. Although the process is similar to that used at chain restaurants (such as KFC), only locations that have purchased the licensed Broaster® can actually claim to serve this broasted food.
As the Chicken Basket menu explains, the Broaster cooks “each individual piece of chicken ‘under pressure’ in the chicken’s own natural juices, limiting the absorption of cooking oil and driving the marinade deep down to the bone while searing the chicken with a golden crispy-crunchy coating.”
“Not too greasy,” agreed my partner who, like so many of us in our youth, worked at a fast-food chain (namely KFC).
Also on the menu: gizzards ($5-$8), chicken or fish kids meal ($4-$6), and chicken strips ($7).
The place is casual, as expected, with a quirky hot-rod/chicken-art theme and ‘50s music in the background.
While we weren’t expecting the 15-plus minutes it took for our order of fish and chips ($9) or breast and wing (which includes fries, slaw and a roll for $8.50), broasting actually takes less time than frying, and all orders are cooked fresh.
We could have placed the order to go using a menu that offers buckets from 10 pieces ($29) to 200 pieces ($355), which begs the question: Who would order that much chicken? A really big, big fan of fried food, I guess. — CARRIE SCOZZARO
Chicken Basket, 601 Northwest Blvd., Coeur d’Alene, is open Sun-Thu 11 am-8:30 pm, and Fri-Sat 11 am-9 pm. Visit chickenbasketcda.com or call (208) 665-7407.
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Litz it up
Sometimes, you want a burger and a beer in a place that’s comfortable enough to be your living room — only with pool tables, pull tabs, arcade games and even a tabletop shuffleboard game. And good pub food.
“My husband started calling it ‘the living room’ when we first opened,” says Tammy Hull, who purchased LITZ’S in April with husband David. “It’s a place where everybody knows everybody, and everybody can feel comfortable.”
The Logan neighborhood watering hole has been around for 25 years, and Hull has worked there for much of its history. Since taking ownership, they’ve cleaned and painted and generally spiffed-up both inside and out, and they’ve added a menu of favorite appetizers, salads, wraps and sandwiches — plus entrées at night and breakfast on Sundays.
“Our cooks can get creative here,” says Tammy. “They can experiment and try different things.”
Like the sweet potato fries ($4) — crispy and hot, with a light sprinkle of both salt and sugar. You can choose your favorite dipping sauce, but I love ’em straight up. The regular French fries ($4) are crispy, lightly seasoned shoestrings, just right for dipping into chipotle mayo or the special Guinness gravy ($1 more).
Among sandwiches ($6-$10), the burger and the Reuben are both winners, as are the melts, available with turkey, ham or roast beef ($8). Soup is made from scratch each weekday: On Tuesday, it’s potato — a chunky blend of diced potatoes, celery, onions and bacon in a savory steaming broth, garnished with fresh herbs and grated cheese.
At the bar, you’ll find 10 taps and 34 bottled beers, along with wines by the glass and a full range of mixed drinks. Zags games always draw a crowd, and the Hulls set up a chili bar on every game night. The place is equipped with wi-fi, so students (and anyone else) can stay in touch online.
The crowd at Litz’s is as diverse as the menu, says Hull, with retirees, working folks, professionals and college students all mingling. “This place is such a melting pot,” she says. “It’s just an eclectic array of people, and everybody gets along.”
Litz’s, 204 E. Ermina Ave., is open Mon 11 am-midnight, Tue-Sat 11 am-2 am, and Sun 8 am-midnight. Call 327-7092.
“My husband started calling it ‘the living room’ when we first opened,” says Tammy Hull, who purchased LITZ’S in April with husband David. “It’s a place where everybody knows everybody, and everybody can feel comfortable.”
The Logan neighborhood watering hole has been around for 25 years, and Hull has worked there for much of its history. Since taking ownership, they’ve cleaned and painted and generally spiffed-up both inside and out, and they’ve added a menu of favorite appetizers, salads, wraps and sandwiches — plus entrées at night and breakfast on Sundays.
“Our cooks can get creative here,” says Tammy. “They can experiment and try different things.”
Like the sweet potato fries ($4) — crispy and hot, with a light sprinkle of both salt and sugar. You can choose your favorite dipping sauce, but I love ’em straight up. The regular French fries ($4) are crispy, lightly seasoned shoestrings, just right for dipping into chipotle mayo or the special Guinness gravy ($1 more).
Among sandwiches ($6-$10), the burger and the Reuben are both winners, as are the melts, available with turkey, ham or roast beef ($8). Soup is made from scratch each weekday: On Tuesday, it’s potato — a chunky blend of diced potatoes, celery, onions and bacon in a savory steaming broth, garnished with fresh herbs and grated cheese.
At the bar, you’ll find 10 taps and 34 bottled beers, along with wines by the glass and a full range of mixed drinks. Zags games always draw a crowd, and the Hulls set up a chili bar on every game night. The place is equipped with wi-fi, so students (and anyone else) can stay in touch online.
The crowd at Litz’s is as diverse as the menu, says Hull, with retirees, working folks, professionals and college students all mingling. “This place is such a melting pot,” she says. “It’s just an eclectic array of people, and everybody gets along.”
Litz’s, 204 E. Ermina Ave., is open Mon 11 am-midnight, Tue-Sat 11 am-2 am, and Sun 8 am-midnight. Call 327-7092.
Them apples
Like a lot of local young people, Rachelle and Aaron Blackmer moved to Seattle following high school in Spokane and college at SFCC and UI. While Aaron completed graduate work in graphic design, Rachelle worked at a jeweler’s shop in a mall, where she discovered a ROCKY MOUNTAIN CHOCOLATE FACTORY shop.
“I would buy an Apple Pie apple every week,” says Rachelle. “I also bought Aaron chocolate for special occasions and just because. His favorite is nut clusters.”
Fortunately for Spokane Valley, Rachelle couldn’t imagine being deprived of her treats after moving back home, so the couple decided to open their own franchise. “We make a lot of the stuff here,” she says. “Our main chocolates [including jellies, toffees and truffles] are from our corporate office, in Durango, Colorado, but they’re pretty much all handmade as well.”
Of the made-in-house fudge, my favorite is the Champagne Fudge ($15/pound), a creamy, rich and smooth milk chocolate with a unique flavor that’s surprisingly not overly sweet. “We add a chocolate liqueur to it, which is a very tart chocolate that tones down that sweetness,” Rachelle explains.
A shiny display case holds enough other candies — truffles, English toffee, nut clusters, caramels and bark, as well as sugar-free selections — to make Willy Wonka blush. Imagine a fluffy marshmallow on a wooden stick, dipped in soft-but-chewy caramel, rolled in crispy rice and enrobed in milk chocolate until it’s close to twice its original size: Behold the Rocky Mountain Nugget ($3).
And think you know caramel apples? Wait till you’re confronted with an enormous, well-lit display case holding row upon tidy row of crispy-fresh Granny Smiths dipped in caramel and previously unimagined combinations of nuts, chocolate chips, coconut, marshmallows, sprinkles and on and on.
“We do all the dipping ourselves,” says Rachelle. Her favorite, the Apple Pie apple, is “dipped in caramel, then white confection and then rolled in brown sugar and cinnamon. It tastes just like apple pie.” Apple prices range from $4 to $7, depending on the number of toppings.
A third case holds a dozen flavors of hard ice cream for cones and such. The Pumpkin Pie ice cream tastes just like pumpkin pie, and the Eggnog tastes just like eggnog.
I didn’t sample the Superman ice cream. Maybe I should have.
Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory, 506 N. Sullivan Rd., Suite E, Spokane Valley, is open Mon-Sat 10 am-9 pm and Sun noon-8 pm. Visit rmcf.com or call 927-RMCF (7623).
“I would buy an Apple Pie apple every week,” says Rachelle. “I also bought Aaron chocolate for special occasions and just because. His favorite is nut clusters.”
Fortunately for Spokane Valley, Rachelle couldn’t imagine being deprived of her treats after moving back home, so the couple decided to open their own franchise. “We make a lot of the stuff here,” she says. “Our main chocolates [including jellies, toffees and truffles] are from our corporate office, in Durango, Colorado, but they’re pretty much all handmade as well.”
Of the made-in-house fudge, my favorite is the Champagne Fudge ($15/pound), a creamy, rich and smooth milk chocolate with a unique flavor that’s surprisingly not overly sweet. “We add a chocolate liqueur to it, which is a very tart chocolate that tones down that sweetness,” Rachelle explains.
A shiny display case holds enough other candies — truffles, English toffee, nut clusters, caramels and bark, as well as sugar-free selections — to make Willy Wonka blush. Imagine a fluffy marshmallow on a wooden stick, dipped in soft-but-chewy caramel, rolled in crispy rice and enrobed in milk chocolate until it’s close to twice its original size: Behold the Rocky Mountain Nugget ($3).
And think you know caramel apples? Wait till you’re confronted with an enormous, well-lit display case holding row upon tidy row of crispy-fresh Granny Smiths dipped in caramel and previously unimagined combinations of nuts, chocolate chips, coconut, marshmallows, sprinkles and on and on.
“We do all the dipping ourselves,” says Rachelle. Her favorite, the Apple Pie apple, is “dipped in caramel, then white confection and then rolled in brown sugar and cinnamon. It tastes just like apple pie.” Apple prices range from $4 to $7, depending on the number of toppings.
A third case holds a dozen flavors of hard ice cream for cones and such. The Pumpkin Pie ice cream tastes just like pumpkin pie, and the Eggnog tastes just like eggnog.
I didn’t sample the Superman ice cream. Maybe I should have.
Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory, 506 N. Sullivan Rd., Suite E, Spokane Valley, is open Mon-Sat 10 am-9 pm and Sun noon-8 pm. Visit rmcf.com or call 927-RMCF (7623).
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