Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Become friends, family

“Over food, strangers become friends and friends become family,” explains Tina-Marie Schultz, quoting her Nonna (grandma) Rosa Bonaventura, after whom Rosa’s Italian Market and Deli is named. It’s located across from Post Falls’ newly constructed City Hall in the town’s only historic-registry home, which Schultz converted to include indoor and outdoor dining.

Rosa’s place is abundantly about food: take-home entrees, fresh or frozen; pastries and breads, fresh or frozen; assorted wines, dried pastas, sauces, and a small wall of other market items; an espresso bar, and a dine-in menu of sandwiches (hot to cold), soups, salads, frittatas (like a quiche), pizza by the slice, and even breakfast.

Cold sandwiches like muffuletta ($7) — cappicolla ham, salami, mortadella, Fontina cheese, giardinierei (pickled vegetables), lettuce and tomato — showcase recipes and ingredients dating back to early American immigrant history, in this case the Sicilians in New Orleans. The Sinatra sandwich tips its hat to the legendary entertainer with sopressata and other salamis, sun-dried tomatoes and fresh mozzarella cheese ($7). Hot subs include Sabrett-brand hot dogs with sautéed potatoes, onions and peppers, inspired by Schultz’s other grandma, Nonna Tillie, and the ubiquitous meatball sub (both $7.25).

For dessert, traditional Italian treats include cannoli ($3.50) and decadent tiramisu ($4.99): lady finger cakes soaked in espresso and topped with a sort of mascarpone cheese custard, then a layer of cocoa.

With local delivery available, your dinner tonight could be veal or chicken parmesan, meatballs or pasta and marinara, pesto and other sauces (prices vary). An online menu makes ordering easy — and if you don’t know, Schultz can help you figure out what you need. — CARRIE SCOZZARO

Rosa’s Italian Market and Deli, 120 E. Fourth St., Post Falls, Idaho, is open Mon-Fri 7 am–6 pm, Sat 8 am-5 pm. Visit www.rosasmarket.com or call (208) 777-7400.

Coming soon

Spokane has enough sports bars, at least in the mind of Chris Hale. So in anticipation of opening the new Hale’s Bar & Grill, Hale gutted and remodeled the old Parker’s Bar & Grill locale on Broadway.

Hale is keeping the Kokanee, the pool leagues, the NFL package on HDTV and, of course, the bar food. He also plans to offer healthier deli sandwiches and salads for lunch, plus a full (vegetarian-friendly) dinner menu and wine list.

Sports bar dudes may feel squeamish about their buffalo wings so close to vegetables (other than celery) in the kitchen, but Hale insists it’ll be OK. “There’s no reason why they can’t coexist,” he says.

No greasy bar food, however, is allowed at the The Local Pub. Brenda Mowry signed the lease for the old Merq Café building “on a whim.” They’ll exclusively offer local foods, local microbrews, local music and local art.

Mowry’s booking philosophy is a case study in “super-laid-back” — “Anyone, basically, if they wanna play here or they wanna have a good time, they’re welcome to hang out here and jam,” she says.

The food at Los Tacos Tumbra is authentic down to the lengua and cabeza — tongue and brain — tacos. “It has the flavor of Mexico City,” says owner Carlos Zuniga.

Five years ago, Zuniga and his sons were working in the fields in Walla Walla. Now the family operates three taco trucks, along with one restaurant in the Valley (and soon, a second one downtown).

“It’s hard to find an opportunity like this to open a business,” says Zuniga. The new Second-and-Cedar space (previously Cruiser’s Cuisine) comes equipped with a full kitchen, so he only had to spring for tables and chairs.

Which brings us inevitably to the 500-pound gorilla in any discussion of casual fare near downtown. Principals in the long-rumored, hotly anticipated, still-to-be-named Elk-owner-owned taco joint in Browne’s Addition aren’t ready to make any announcements.
Elk Manager Marshall Powell would only say that, yes, there will be a “taco shop” in the next-door space but didn’t have anything else to add. “I’d say we should know within a month,” Powell says, laughing, “but I’ve said that for about eight months.” — ERIKA PRINS AND LUKE BAUMGARTEN

Hale’s Bar & Grill is set to open in mid-October at 1011 W. Broadway Ave. Open 10:30 am-2 am every day. Contact halesbarandgrill@yahoo.com. The Local Pub is expected to open in mid-October at 706 N. Monroe St. Open 11 am-2 pm every day. Contact thelocalpubandpatio@yahoo.com. Los Tacos Tumbras may open as early as this weekend. They’ll be open for lunch and dinner (exact hours pending) every day — and until 2 am on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Call 927-8220.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Winter fresh

Summer squash, cucumbers, peppers and peaches still stock farmers’ market stands, but many area farmers markets — including the Spokane Farmers Market downtown and the South Perry Market — will fold up their tents for the season by the end of October.

But for the next four weeks, says Fresh Abundance owner Eden Brightspirit Hendrix, “we’re in the biggest bounty of our entire year.”

Another few weeks of juicy peaches is still just another few weeks, though. And then what? What do people even eat after the parking lots that bustled with produce shoppers and acoustic guitar all summer are buried in white?

Here’s what: more fresh seasonal produce. Spokane’s clamor for year-round fresh deliciousness has been heard by the produce gods, and they have granted us an unprecedented number of winter farmers markets held indoors.

The Community Building farmers market, which began informally a few years ago with just one vendor — Arabesque Farms & Bakery — now takes over as the downtown source for a weekly “fresh” fix when Spokane Farmers Market closes in mid-October.

Fresh Abundance’s Community Roots Market will continue at least through the end of the year, says Hendrix, offering root crops like carrots and potatoes, winter squash and “heartier greens” like cabbage.

Millwood Farmers Market began staying open for winter last year at the request of vendors, who were scrambling to figure out how to continue delivering their fresh meats, produce and bread to regular customers after the market closed, says Susie David’s Cattle Company owner Dave McCullough.

And Local Marketplace & Gallery owner Michael Peterson is making preparations for their market’s first winter in the arts-and-crafts shop as we speak. “In fact.” he says, “I’m just building shelving in one of the rooms to set up for the farmers market moving in there.” — ERIKA PRINS

• The Community Building Market is open Thursdays from 11 am-3 pm at 35 W. Main Ave.
• The Millwood Winter Market begins Wednesday, Oct. 7, from noon-5 pm at the Crossover, 8919 E. Euclid Ave.
• Community Roots Market is on Sundays from 11 am-4 pm at Fresh Abundance, 2015 N. Division.
• The Local Marketplace & Gallery Market is on Fridays from 2-7 pm at 122 N. Argonne Rd.

Pancakes and patties

If you’re a fan of biscuits and gravy, chicken fried steak, and all day breakfast, there’s a new diner in downtown Spokane you should know about. Located next to the Days Inn hotel, it’s a place where generous breakfasts fuel weary travelers and hot-off-the-grill lunches feed those passing through the busy Third Avenue corridor.

The minimalist décor has a subtle Western theme, with paintings of wild game animals and rooms named “Back at the Ranch” and “Wild West.” Country music plays in the background, rounding out the ambience.

The breakfast offerings are plentiful, including standard favorites like pancake platters, strawberry-topped French toast and bacon and eggs. Breakfast prices range from $5 for a short stack to $9.25 for Joe’s favorite: pancakes, three kinds of meat, eggs, hash browns and toast. Omelets, oatmeal and Belgian waffles are also available.

For lunch or dinner, the menu features char-broiled burgers, tuna melts, and Reuben sandwiches served with thick-cut fries or applesauce. The Turkey Deluxe sandwich ($7) rates high on the comfort-food scale, with just the right amount of crispy bacon and melted Swiss cheese grilled between layers of golden sourdough. Our order was slow in arriving, but the kitchen seemed just to be getting warmed up, as other customers’ orders were filled promptly.

Starters include mozzarella sticks, onion rings, or soup of the day. Entrees ($7-$14) are traditional all-American favorites like chicken fried steak, charbroiled salmon, fish and chips and a rib eye with asparagus and hollandaise. For lighter appetites, Third Avenue offers a grilled chicken Caesar and a diner salad.

I had visions of ordering a chocolate milkshake along with my lunch, but it was probably a blessing to my waistline that the dessert options are limited to ice cream and cheesecake.

Third Avenue Diner serves its purpose by offering well-executed, tried-and-true favorites at affordable prices. After two failed Indian restaurants in the same space, maybe a little down-home comfort food isn’t such a bad strategy. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

Third Avenue Diner, 128 W. Third Ave., is open 6 am-10 pm, daily. Call 747-3251.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Top Notch Returns

Walk into the newly reopened Top Notch Café and you can expect to be greeted with friendly service, a great cup of coffee, and classic breakfast and lunch options with a few twists. You also get to slip back in time.

The Top Notch first opened in 1931 on the corner of Monroe and Mallon, and original art deco touches remain in the renovated space. “Daily people come in with stories from the past,” new owner Don Torbenson says with a grin, “and I just found out that the grandfather of one of our servers used to wash dishes here.”

Torbenson also discovered that early in its history, a previous owner would leave the door open all night long with a hot pot of coffee on for beat cops when they walked by. They came, warmed up and left money on the counter for the coffee they drank.

The coffee is still hot and several notches above typical diner brew, but the door is no longer open 24 hours. Torbenson and his crew open at 7 am during the week (8 am on weekends) and close at 2 pm after the last stragglers from the courthouse have been in for their Reuben or French Dip ($8.25 each).

Order an early breakfast special and $4.95 gets you two eggs, hash browns, toast, and coffee. We like the fact that the bread comes from just across the street at the Alpine Bistro and Bakery, and the hash browns are sliced thick.

Overall the menu highlights comfort food and traditional fare. “We wanted to bring it back to what it used to be,” Torbenson says. But along the way he and his wife Tama also had a little fun. There is Tama’s Jalapeño Burger ($7.95) at lunch, amped-up enough to make you cry, and an omelet packed with… wait for it… sauerkraut, cheese and German sausage.

Torbenson asked Terry Best from O’Doherty’s in the Valley if he could put a Terry original on the menu, and notes that “the people that try it, fall in love with it.” But he adds with another grin that not everyone is willing to try it. You can decide whether you’ll stick to the standards or try a Top Notch adventure, but either way, swing in soon for some good, unfussy food and a little living history in the shadow of the courthouse. — KEVIN FINCH

Top Notch Café, 825 North Monroe St., is open 7 am-2 pm weekdays and 8 am-2 pm weekends. Call 315-5567.

Pho-Tastic

Sometimes the good stuff is right under our noses, like the fragrant soup served by Pho Thanh and Café. This humble eatery serving traditional Vietnamese fare actually was opened five years ago by Sau V. Nguyen, when he relocated to Coeur d’Alene from Spokane.

It took us awhile to discover what others already know: the food is delicious and well-priced (nothing over $9), and most dishes are so abundant you’ll need take-home containers. That may be why Pho Thanh has developed a loyal following, like the family who’d traveled up from the Coeur d’Alene reservation for a hearty meal of things like the No. 28 chow mein noodles with lemon grass chili beef, chicken, shrimp and pork ($9).

For us it was a starter of spring rolls (2 for $3): tender chicken, hints of basil, and spicy, peanuty dipping sauce. Other options are fried egg rolls and fried wontons most diners might associate with Chinese cooking ($3).

Of course we had to try the beef soup or pho bo, which arrived in a large bowl with a side of raw bean sprouts, basil leaves, lime and jalapeno slices. A perfect blend of soft noodles, crispy veggies and tender beef, which arrives surprisingly rare since it continues to cook in the steaming broth (our motto has always been: eat first, ask questions and do research later).
Variations on pho include the addition of meatballs, beef tendon, tripe and even chicken ($7 small/$8 large).

Steamed rice (com dia) and vermicelli-like noodles (bun) are menu staples, topped in numerous variations: lemon grass chicken, beef or pork; beef meatball; shrimp skewer; charbroiled chicken, and fried egg roll ($8.45-$9). Two stir-fried special dishes, wonton soup, and Vietnamese chicken salad round out the menu. Beverages include soda, traditional soybean and coconut drinks in a can and a small assortment of bottle beers ($1-3).

All tables are equipped with dipping sauces — hoisin, sriracha chili, soy, lemon grass chili — so you can adjust the spice of your food, as well as extra plates for sharing, which you’ll definitely want to do as you discover your new favorite. — CARRIE SCOZZARO

Pho Thanh and Cafe, 2108 N. Fourth Street, Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, is open Mon-Sat 9:30 am–9 pm, Sun 9:30 am-7 pm. Call (208) 665-9903. Reservations recommended.

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Logger hangout

A bar that pays tribute to logging should be described as run-of-the-mill; upscale or pretentious just doesn’t seem fitting for the humble history of backbreaking logging and millwork upon whose foundation much of the Inland Northwest was built.

THE MILL is just such a tribute bar, its dark-paneled walls adorned with historic photos, logging lore, saw blades and assorted beverage advertisements. A few history books on logging are scattered about, and rough-cut logs serve as end tables here and there.

But if you’re envisioning the Snake Pit or White Horse Saloon, kick it up a few notches. Even though the Mill is located on a former mill site, that site is now Riverstone — Coeur d’Alene’s high-end, river-view development along Northwest Boulevard, with condos starting in the $200s. Next door is Starbucks. Nearby is a chi-chi new movie theater and places like Zi Spa.

Inside the Mill, the overall feel is sort of a tastefully appointed man cave. There are darts, shuffleboard and televisions, of course, yet its storefront location, outdoor seating and overall sparse décor keeps it from feeling like a male-only haven.

The menu is mostly finger foods, such as our sweet-hot chicken wings ($7.25), which can be ordered hotter. The seasoned fries ($3.75) can be topped with chili, onions or cheese ($0.50-$1 each). Mozzarella sticks, jalapeño poppers ($6) and onion rings ($4.50) round out the deep-fried appetizer offerings. If you’re not into sharing, try a quarter-pound burger or chicken sandwich ($6.50), or maybe a corn dog and fries ($3.50).

Nothing goes better with griddled food than ice cold beer — the selection includes your basic domestics like Budweiser, but also Sam Adams, Fat Tire, Drop Top, Stella Artois and Deschutes. The best feature on the beer menu was the Red Light Wheat Lager from Wallace Brewing Company, a Silver Valley startup (opened in December 2008) with a growing following and a great sense of humor. — CARRIE SCOZZARO

The Mill, 2360 Old Mill Loop, CdA, is open Tue-Sun 4 pm-midnight. Call (208) 667-6455.

Pork and plantains

There is nothing about BLUE ISLAND’S location or décor that does justice to its name. Housed in the Club Edge space on East Sprague, the exposed timber and rock wall interior is more befitting of a hunting lodge than a tropical island paradise.

But don’t let the location put you off. Club Edge still operates the bar, but Rolando Diaz and his wife Doralquis Labrada have taken over the restaurant operations with an extensive menu of Cuban dishes. The Diaz family personally welcomes their guests and is eager to explain their native cuisine to newcomers.

Blue Island describes Cuban food as “a mixture of Spanish, indigenous, African, French and Arabic,” and the menu reflects these multicultural influences with pork shashlik, eggplant roulettes, chicken cordon bleu and simple dishes like Cuban-style ground beef and lamb brochettes. Entrees ($10-15) are served with congri (beans and rice) or potatoes and salad.

Dim lighting at my table (think nightclub) made it difficult to read the menu, but that didn’t put a damper on my crusty, grilled Cuban sandwich with ham, roast pork and Swiss cheese ($6.50) served with house-made French fries and salad. There are 10 choices of grilled sandwiches, including a vegetarian option. My son finished an entire plate of Chatinos — a simple but pleasingly chewy snack of fried plantains. I was disappointed to learn that they were out of Cuban coffee, which I’ll have to try on my next visit because I am still thinking about it.

I satisfied my sweet tooth with the bread pudding, a cinnamon flavored, dense pudding reminiscent of cheesecake. The Cuban flan, creamy and drizzled with caramel, scored high marks too.

Blue Island is unique in Spokane for its diverse menu of Cuban cuisine from traditional snacks to vegetarian dishes and meat brochettes. If you want to try something new and enjoy being treated like family, I recommend a Blue Island get-away. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

Blue Island, 8122 E. Sprague, is open Tues-Sun 11 am-9 pm, full menu. After 9 pm, sandwiches, appetizers and drinks. Call 926-6921.

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Greasy pleasures

It’s late. Really late. I was ferrying my friends home when one shouted from the back seat, “I want a burrito!” As weary as I was, I wanted to tell him to shut his mouth and eat something when he got home but… I had a taste for some nachos, too. “Let”s go to the new place,” I shouted over the radio.

The new place, ABELARDO’S, is one of Spokane Valley’s few options for food at 2 am. The Cal-Mex restaurant, started by employees from the small California chain Adalberto’s, keeps its drive-thru open 24-7 and is always offering breakfast. All dishes are made to order so the drive-thru can take as long as 15 minutes.

The cuisine, which owners admit is based off Adalberto’s menu, is a mix of traditional Mexican recipes and fast food staples. For example, Adalberto’s “California” has melted shredded cheese, rice and traditional carne asada but Abelardo’s uses French fries instead of potato chunks.

After negotiations and bartering, we came up with something that resembled an order: two bean burritos ($1.99 each), a shrimp burrito ($3.89), two chicken tacos ($1.89 each), an order of super nachos ($6.29) and extra hot sauce. The final total was still under twenty bucks.

The shrimp burrito was the size of an energy drink and, if thrown with some might, it’d be heavy enough to take out a window. My chicken taco was an overstuffed half oval of grease and love. The slow cooked chicken dripped juice from the shell every time I took a bite.

The stand-out of the night was the super nachos. The house-fried corn ship was topped with refried beans, cheddar cheese, over half a pound of carne asada, a cilantro-heavy homemade salsa, sour cream and guacamole. It was not only a formidable midnight snack but made for a good breakfast the next morning.

Abelardo’s is far from healthy (almost everything will leave a puddle of grease on its wrapper), but in the middle of the night, who cares? — SAM STOWERS

Abelardo’s at 11519 E. Sprague Avenue in Spokane Valley is open 24 hours a day, Mon-Sun. Inside seating is available from 6 am to midnight. Call 924-7485.

Tacos and tequila

Recently opened AGAVE LATIN BISTRO is a partnership between Ian Wingate (owner of the nearby Moxie restaurant) and Sergio DeLeon, owner of DeLeon’s Mexican Deli. Formerly Bluefish and briefly Aqua, Agave’s cool aqua walls and sleek black and chrome furniture give the place a hip, high-tech feeling. Friendly service, candles and miniature cacti on the tables make Agave warm and inviting.

“We use his [DeLeon’s] ingredients incorporated into my style,” Wingate explains. The warm chips are made from DeLeon’s tortillas and accompanied by a demi-tasse of salsa, made from DeLeon’s recipe.

The starter menu ($4-$14) includes grilled smoked paprika prawns, ceviche, and several salads, including a pear and arugula salad with prickly pear cactus vinaigrette. You’ll also find gazpacho and Spicy Tequila Lime chicken soup.

Taco plates ($12-$14) are served with DeLeon’s rustic rice, tortillas and a choice of mild rancho beans or spicy Cuban black beans. For fillings, you can choose from chipotle grilled tofu, ancho grilled chicken, steak or fish tacos. Garnished with lime crème fraîche, fresh peppers and cilantro, the tacos rate a notch above standard Mexican fare for their colorful and artful presentation.

The Wild Boar Chile Verde ($14) was simmered to buttery perfection in a tomatillo sauce with green peppers and cilantro. Accompanied by rice, rancho beans with peppers, warm tortillas and a crunchy cabbage slaw, it tasted as good as it looked. Peruvian Seafood Cioppino, Lobster Paella, tequila-and-cactus-braised short ribs, and duck breast with chorizo sausage risotto round out the menu, with plans to add a late-night tapas menu soon.

Desserts include flan, cheesecake and chocolate cake, made at DeLeon’s bakery.

If you are a tequila lover, you’re in luck. Try the popular bright pink Prickly Pear margarita with cactus juice, or one of Agave’s 25 tequilas, including a caramel-flavored one. Wingate plans to increase the selection to number 100 varieties.

Agave combines DeLeon’s solid Mexican flavors with Wingate’s upscale style. The resulting Latin fusion is a welcome and refreshing addition to Spokane’s dining scene. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

Agave Latin Bistro and Tequila Bar, 830 W. Sprague, is open Tue-Sat, 4 pm-midnight. Call 473-9180.

Here Piggy, Piggy

Spokane’s annual extravaganza of overindulgence is already underway — the six solid days of PIG OUT IN THE PARK began on Wednesday and continue clear through Monday, Sept. 7 (aka Labor Day). Thousands will descend on Riverfront Park this weekend to hear the free music or partake of the beer gardens (three of them!), but the food is the heart of the party, as the name suggests. More than 40 food vendors offer a couple of hundred different food items, from chocolate-covered fruits and ice cream to pizzas and more noodles than you can shake a spatula at. Local vendors including Pizza Rita, Longhorn BBQ, Boehm’s, Azars and Pho Van join the usual selection of traveling vendors to bring food to the masses. Prices this year top out at $9, so hit up the ATM on your way to the park. And arrive hungry. — ANN M. COLFORD

Pig Out in the Park, sprawling across Riverfront Park, is open daily 10 am-10 pm through Monday, Sept. 7. Visit
spokanepigout.com.