Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Sushiyama go-go

When I first heard that Spokane’s last remaining Arctic Circle restaurant on Third Avenue was closing down and would be replaced by a sushi bar, I thought, “Self, this marks a seminal moment in Spokane dining.” Chain burger joint makes way for sushi? Deep thoughts bubbled.
But then I found out that Chef Charlie Yamamoto of BAEK CHUN SUSHIYAMA was opening a downtown Spokane outpost at the site. All abstract philosophical meanderings gave way to one simple question: When?

Luckily, the answer is: Now.

Yamamoto is a sushi veteran going back to the Puget Sound area in the 1980s. He trekked east and opened his humble restaurant and shop in an Airway Heights storefront about five years ago, quickly attracting a loyal cadre of followers from nearby Fairchild. Word of his skill with sushi spread through foodie circles; I and others made quiet pilgrimages westward.

The Spokane shop has been open about a month now, and a steady crowd of devotees stopped by on a recent Friday evening — some who knew Sushiyama from Airway Heights, some drawn by either word of mouth or simply the sign out front.

One couple said they’d been directed by a co-worker to come in and sit right up front at the sushi bar. “Oh, first-time customers, let Charlie choose,” Yamamoto suggested. “Yes, yes. Charlie take care of you.”

And take care he did, delivering two signature sushi rolls, a stunning variety of nigiri sushi (raw fish on rice), plus a sampler of pickled vegetables and salads.

The menu has a broad selection of Japanese and Korean dishes, from appetizers to entrées to full bento-box meals (either dinner or lunch). The seaweed salad ($5) tastes clean and refreshing; the deep-fried tofu appetizer (agedashi, $7) encases chunks of moist, silky tofu in a light, crunchy coating, topped with a piquant sauce and served over shredded cabbage.

But the fresh fish is the star. (The shop is closed every Wednesday so Yamamoto can go to Seattle and buy his seafood.) Pay attention to the server’s recitation of which items are the freshest: Last week, the suzuki (sea bass), mirugai (geoduck) and hirame (halibut) were high on the list. Two pieces of nigiri will run anywhere from $4 to $10, but as a special, you can choose any eight pieces for $14.

Shoji-screen panels float above the sushi bar and elsewhere, and the interior looks nothing like its former burger-joint incarnation.

Whether the larger cultural shift — from burgers to sushi — is a good thing remains an open question, but while I ponder that one, I’ll happily let Charlie take care of me.

— ANN M. COLFORD

Baek Chun Sushiyama, 1321 W. Third Ave., is open weekdays (except Wednesday) 11 am-9 pm, Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat 11 am-midnight. Call 624-5553.

Just relax...

With its sleek black furniture, mirrored bar and elegant crystal chandeliers, the new LEFTBANK WINE BAR appears quite formal. But don’t be deceived: With a glass of Cougar Crest Viognier ($7.50) in hand and Norah Jones playing softly in the background, I wanted to slip off my shoes and put my feet up on the plush, red velvet love seat. I restrained myself and concentrated instead on my bruschetta with Gorgonzola and honey ($8), which was delightful paired with the wine. Buddies meeting for a beer, girlfriends catching up and two moms with a babe in stroller all looked equally relaxed. LeftBank is the kind of place that gives a city its urban feel.

The wine menu offers 60 wines by the glass, most in the $5 to $7 range, and a dozen beers. Owner and sommelier Aaron Kelly helped me navigate the list and poured me a taste of the Cougar Crest before I decided. LeftBank’s extensive wine list offers familiar favorites like Barnard Griffin and Kim Crawford, boutique wines selected with the help of wine manager Jen Nichols from Walla Walla, and several dessert wines.

LeftBank opens at 8 am, serving Craven’s coffee and scones from Taste Café. An all-day menu includes panini sandwiches and salads ($7-$8), as well as an antipasto plate ($9) featuring prosciutto and salami from Santé. Desserts, including chocolate mousse, are from Just American Desserts. “We try to support as many local businesses as we can,” says Kelly.

The grand opening event is set for Saturday, May 30 — “meet the winemaker” during the day, and listen to live music at night.

LeftBank offers cheese plates to go along with the wines, giving wine-pairing suggestions for each cheese. The cheese menu provides phonetic pronunciation, so go ahead — order the Taleggio (tah-LEH-joe), a semi-soft Italian cheese, and a glass of Zardetto Prosecco.

Kelly and his wife Katrina want to create a place where people can try different wines in a non-threatening way and linger in a relaxed environment. I think they have succeeded.

— KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

LeftBank Wine Bar, 108 N. Washington St., is open Mon-Fri, 8 am to late, and Sat 3 pm to late. Call 315-8623.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Big pie dreams

As Bruce Springsteen sings: “From small things, mama, big things one day come.” A big-time hit in its humble downtown Sandpoint location across from the park, BABS’ PIZZERIA had barely taken over the former Ice House Pizza place in 2007 when they realized the space was just too small. Across town on Highway 2, the new Mountain West facility was being built, housing several other restaurants including Dish and a new Subway.

“This fills a need on this side of town,” says Babs Tietjens, who runs the pizzeria with her mother BJ.

The signature offering is New York-style, thin-crust pizza. Besides your basic cheese ($2.75/slice; $10-$16/pie), there are specialties like the Village (pesto, mozzarella, sundried tomatoes, artichokes, crumbled feta), the Little Italy (marinara, mozzarella, sweet sausage, green peppers, red onions) and the Hells Kitchen (marinara, mozzarella, spinach, roasted red peppers, mushrooms and chicken). Not sure if it’s indecisiveness or the need to have it all that inspires the Yuppie — half “meat lovers” and half “veggie lovers” — pizzas ($16/$25), but it’s funny either way.

Most pies are $14 for 12-inch and $20 for 18-inch, and all are available for dine-in or takeout.
Besides pizza, there are sandwiches like the meatball parmesan or Italian sausage and pepper ($8), stromboli ($7-$12) and its cousin, the calzone, with a choice of four toppings ($8).
Although they don’t make their own pasta, they do make the sauce. Besides the standby of spaghetti with or without meatballs or sausage ($8-$10), they have a daily special.

Babs makes the puff pastry-filled artispins — artichokes and spinach — and spanokopita with spinach and feta, as well as the raspberry-chipotle wings ($7-$12).

They also serve salads, a few soups, some desserts and both wine and beer, all parts of the menu they hope to continue to expand. Both mother and daughter are still dreaming big. — CARRIE SCOZZARO

Babs’ Pizzeria, 1319 Hwy 2, Suite C, Sandpoint, Idaho, is open Mon-Thu 11 am–8 pm, Fri-Sat 11 am-9 pm. Call (208) 265-7992.

Hooray for Local

Spokane’s newest outdoor market opened quietly on Friday in the parking lot at the Center on Sixth (1717 W. Sixth Ave.) with a handful of vendors selling everything from hand-chopped salsa to beaded jewelry to hand-dipped chocolate truffles from the French Quarter. Market organizer Nathan White is a big fan of the Portland Saturday Market, the waterfront arts and crafts marketplace that’s been part of that city’s scene since 1974, and he’s hoping to create a similar venue for Spokane.

Another new market this year is the Community Roots Market, hosted by Fresh Abundance at its North Division store (2015 N. Division). The market has been happening on the third Sunday of each month since early this year, but starting on June 14, the outdoor local products market — featuring about 35 vendors selling produce, meats and locally produced crafts — will be open every Sunday through the summer.

Once the season is in full swing, shoppers seeking local foods and crafts will be able to find a market nearly every day of the week. This week, look for bedding plants, potted starts of herbs and vegetables, plus a few early greens, rhubarb, eggs, meat, honey and prepared foods. Here’s who’s open when:

• Coeur d’Alene Farmers Market, Fifth Ave. between Sherman and Front, Coeur d’Alene, is open Wednesdays from 4-6 pm.

• Friday Market, 1717 W. Sixth Ave., is open Fridays from 8 am-2 pm.

• Kootenai County Farmers Market, Highway 95 at Prairie Ave., Hayden, Idaho, is open Saturdays from 8 am-1 pm.

• Liberty Lake Farmers Market, 1421 N. Meadowwood Ln. (Liberty Square parking lot), Liberty Lake, Wash., is open Saturdays, 9 am-1 pm.

• Millwood Farmers Market, 3223 N. Marguerite Rd. (at Millwood Presbyterian Church), Millwood, Wash., is open Wednesdays from 3-7 pm.

• Montfort Farmers Market, 1915 W. Monroe Rd. (Montfort School Community Center), Colbert, Wash., is open Thursdays from 4-7 pm.

• Moscow Farmers Market, Friendship Square, Main Street at Fourth, Moscow, Idaho, is open Saturdays from 8 am-noon.

• Pend Oreille Farmers Market, Spruce and Union St., Newport, Wash., is open Saturdays from 9 am-1 pm.

• Pullman Farmers Market, 245 SE Paradise Rd. (Old Post Office Wine Bar), Pullman, Wash., is open Wednesdays from 4:30-6:30 pm.

• Sandpoint Farmers Market, Farmin Park, Third and Main streets, Sandpoint, Idaho, is open Saturdays from 9 am-1 pm. (The market will also be open on Wednesdays from 3-5:30 pm starting in June.)

• Spokane Farmers Market, Second Ave. at Division, is open Saturdays from 8 am-1 pm. (The market will open on Wednesdays from 8 am-1 pm starting in June.)

Starting May 29, Cheney Farmers Market, First St. and College Ave., Cheney, Wash., will be open Fridays, 10 am-3 pm. (The market also will open on first and third Saturdays from 9 am-1 pm, through the summer, starting June 6.) We hear that the Airway Heights Farmers Market will be open on Thursdays from 9 am-1 pm starting May 28, but we haven’t received confirmation. And June 4 will see the opening of the South Perry Farmers Market (1317 E. 12th Ave.), in the parking lot of Christ Community Church, running Thursdays from 3-7 pm. Happy local shopping! — ANN M. COLFORD

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Where there's fire

The ROCKET MARKET saw some excitement on the day before Bloomsday when a fire heavily damaged the second-floor office, but the market is open, and events are going on as planned. The summer music series was already scheduled to kick off this Saturday, May 16, and it will kick off in tongue-in-cheek style at 6 pm with an event that’s being dubbed the “Firepalooza Outdoor Music Festival,” featuring Darin Hildebrand and Kevin Long.

On Friday evenings, the Market holds wine classes (with beer thrown in once a month for variety) hosted by wine manager — or “wine savant” — Carl Carlsteen, and the lineup for the rest of May is looking particularly intriguing. This week (May 15), inspired by economic stimuli and bargain hunting, Carlsteen presents the Troubled Wine Assets Relief Program, a sampling of 10 quality wines that cost no more than $10 per bottle. Wine students will get to sample each of the 10 wines, along with cheese and La Brea breads, for $20.

Next week (May 22), Carlsteen explores the world of white wines, just in time for (we hope) the onset of warmer weather. To close out the month (May 29), he presents a cabernet sauvignon smack down — eight cabs, spanning the globe, sampled blind. Think you know your ABCs? (That’s Australia, Bordeaux and Chile.) Take up the challenge, and emerge victorious. — ANN M. COLFORD

Wine classes at the Rocket Market, 726 E. 43rd Ave., are in session on Fridays, starting at 7 pm. Cost per class varies from $20-$25. Preregistration requested. Call 343-2253.

If you build it...

Every night since their little South Perry Street pub opened two weeks ago, LANTERN TAVERN owners Jeff Nordvall and Laura Paisley have been busy slinging drinks from their expansive beer and wine menus. Almost too busy. As the neighborhood’s first watering hole, the Lantern has unleashed the growing district’s thirsty forces. Walkers turn out en masse to pile into the pocket-sized tavern, and nomads from further reaches drive over to steal one of the 12 seats.

But it’s no surprise the place is popular: They have many palate-pleasing beers, from bottles of organic Pinkus Hefeweizen to Big Sky Brewing’s Trout Slayer on tap. And their wine list is not bad, either. Buy a bottle from the local Barrister Winery and split it with a friend.

Once inside, check out the woodwork. Hewn from 100- and 200-year-old reclaimed barn wood by local woodsmith Dan McGrew, the interior is a masterpiece.

South Perry, for sure, struck gold with the Lantern. Prices are reasonable and the barkeeps, pleasant. Once you go to the Lantern, you might never want to leave. But, please do. We’re waiting for a seat. — NICHOLAS DESHAIS

The Lantern Tavern, 1004 S. Perry St, opens Tue-Fri at 4 pm, and Sat at 2 pm. Sun hours vary.

That's Italian

When Italian food lovers dream, they dream of a place like CASSANO’S ITALIAN GROCERY.
And now Cassano’s, having outgrown its longtime location on East Sprague, has a new home: Owner Carl Naccarato relocated the shop to the corner of Mission and Napa in the former Piccolo’s market building. The new location — with triple the space, a commercial kitchen and ample parking — allows Cassano’s to offer more products and services, such as fresh meat and produce, more than 20 kinds of olive oil, a deli counter serving Italian sandwiches, and a new restaurant called THE MISSION BISTRO.

If you like to cook, you’ll be inspired to fill your shopping basket with house-made sausages, fresh pasta, roasted peppers and truffle oil. Don’t forget the Chianti and fresh Italian bread to go with your meal.

If you’d rather leave the cooking to someone else, head for the back of the store and look for the Mission Bistro. The private dining room was recently remodeled by Dave Finney, Naccarato’s partner in both the Bistro and in the store’s catering business, known as David deCarlo Catering. Finney and Naccarato plan to offer cooking classes this fall.

The Bistro’s space is simple and homey, as is the menu: The choices are pizza, pasta and made-to-order deli sandwiches. Our 14-inch pepperoni pizza ($10) arrived piping hot with a chewy scratch-made crust, Italian pepperoni and loads of fresh, deliciously stringy melted mozzarella.

Our server recommended Cassano’s Famous Lasagna ($11): “People from the East Coast say it’s the best they’ve had since they’ve moved out here.” Naccarato’s recipe is a vegetarian version — tender sheets of pasta layered with pesto, five cheeses and a red sauce with a hint of fennel. Served with a warm Tuscan roll and a green salad, it was divine.

The chicken asiago fettucine ($11), with a wild mushroom and truffle cream Alfredo sauce, smelled heavenly as it passed by my table. Maybe next time. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

Cassano’s Italian Grocery, at 2002 E. Mission Ave., is open Mon-Sat 8 am-8 pm, Sun 10 am-5 pm. The Mission Bistro, located inside Cassano’s, is open Mon-Sat 11 am-2 pm for lunch, 5 pm-8 pm for dinner. Visit www.cassanositaliangrocery.com or call 747-3888.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Vino for Mom

Breakfast in bed is overrated — just ask any mom who’s actually been so fêted. Instead, spend quality time with Mom while doing something that you’ll both enjoy: drinking local wine. The annual Spring Barrel Tasting — a great excuse to sample Spokane’s locally produced wines — is set for this weekend, and all 14 local wineries are participating. The newest entrants in the Mother’s Day tradition are Whitestone Winery, with its newly opened downtown tasting room (at 111 S. Cedar St. next to the Rocket Bakery), and Liberty Lake Wine Cellars (1018 S. Garry Rd., Liberty Lake). Tasting fees vary, and most of the wineries offer limited munchies to go with the vintages.

— ANN M. COLFORD

The Spokane Winery Association’s Spring Barrel Tasting runs Fri-Sun, May 8-10, from 11 am-5 pm at all 14 of the association’s wineries. Visit spokanewineries.net.

Join the club

Breakfast is a simple meal to make, ranging from the minimalist approach (bread products, fruit) to full-blown cardiac specials (dairy, meat and bread products). Who among us can’t heat water, fry eggs or operate the toaster? Yet breakfast out is a treat, a break from cold cereal, lingering over the morning paper while someone refreshes your coffee.

Open seven days a week, KC’S BREAKFAST CLUB in Post Falls wants you to be a regular member. Their menu features home-style breakfast and lunch, with variations for different size appetites, plus menus for kids, seniors and to-go.

Breakfast could be omelets with home-style potatoes or hashbrowns and three buttermilk pancakes ($8-$10). Order your omelet plain, with chef’s choice of vegetables, or choose the meat lovers’ (think pizza flavors). “Country”-style items include three biscuits and sausage gravy (ridiculously low-priced at $4), steak and eggs ($8.50) or Country Eggs Benny ($7.50). The Eggs Nicole is a fabulous benedict variation with mushrooms, spinach, onions and Swiss over an open-face croissant with hollandaise, plus a side of potatoes and fruit. The leftovers were even good reheated the next day.

Traditional options include egg-and-meat combos (bacon and eggs, ham and eggs, etc.) and egg-based scrambles ($6.65-$8.65). They serve waffles, French toast and pancakes ($4.75-$10.75) with various toppings. Variations include crepes, cream cheese-filled blintzes and the decadent Apple Pancake soufflé with house-made apple syrup.

Although breakfast is served all day, lunch (served after 11 am) may tempt you, too. Charbroiled burgers range from traditional to jalapeño, mushroom and Swiss, or the Hawaiian-style with teriyaki and pineapple ($7-$9). Sandwiches, including standbys like the BLT and the unusual Alaskan — smoked ham, shrimp, Swiss, tomato and special sauce on wheat bread — are served with choice of salad, soup or homemade waffle fries ($7-$9).

Service is prompt and friendly, prices generally reasonable, and quality is good. The building’s covered, angle-in parking spots are reminiscent of its first incarnation as an A&W, yet this restaurant location at Seltice Way and Spokane Street has thoroughly reinvented itself.

— CARRIE SCOZZARO

KC’s Breakfast Club, 115 W. Seltice Way, Post Falls, Idaho, is open Mon-Sat 6 am-2 pm, Sun 7 am-3 pm. Call (208) 773-3764.

Ole on Freya

For those of you Mexican food fans who were sad to see La Katrina Tacos close its shutters, don’t despair: Jorge and Adriana Hernandez have opened HACIENDA LAS FLORES in the old space. They gave the brick building a much needed facelift inside and out. The cheery yellow and blue exterior is eye-catching, and the bright color theme continues inside with decorative flags and hot pink walls.

“We did everything ourselves,” Jorge says. “My wife painted. I’m in the kitchen. My brother and friends help.”

The fiesta atmosphere and warm, welcoming smiles will make you feel right at home. Along with the standard basket of chips, you’ll get four different dips: spicy and mild red salsas; a crunchy, fresh cabbage pico de gallo; and a bean dip. You might be tempted to make a meal out of the chips and complimentary dips, but you’ll want to save some room for Jorge’s cooking. The dishes are fresh and flavorful with just the right amount of spice, and the portions are generous.

The extensive menu contains favorites like burritos, fajitas and enchiladas as well as Mexican soups, salads and huevos rancheros ($9) in case you missed breakfast. The Pollo de Mole ($12.25) features tender chicken and Jorge’s own mole sauce — a mildly spicy, smoky version with peanut butter. I was skeptical about the peanut butter, but the dish was the favorite at our table.

The spinach enchiladas ($10.50) are filled with quickly sautéed spinach, bell peppers, mushrooms and onions giving the dish a fresh, light twist. The Verde Burrito ($9.50) combines peppery, tender pork with beans and rice topped with green salsa.

The kids’ menu, crayons and special drink cups were a hit with my 4-year-old. The family-friendly atmosphere and 99-cent kids’ meals on Sundays make it a great choice for an affordable dinner out.

Judging by the steady stream of customers, I’m not the only one happy to see another Mexican restaurant in town.

— KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

Hacienda Las Flores, 510 S. Freya St., is open daily 11 am-9 pm. Call 315-8853.