Monday, November 23, 2009

Fresh Mex

A new Mexican retail and wholesale grocery store, MERCADO DEL PUEBLO, will make its debut in mid-December with piñatas dangling from the ceiling and fresh tamales on the shelf.

The store’s owner, Fred Meyer (no relation to the chain of mega-stores), promises fresh produce and south-of-the-border goodies like chilies, spices and bulk piñata candy. Mexican breads, pastries cakes, desserts will come out of the shop’s “authentic, baked-from-scratch” bakery, says Meyer. They’ll also take orders for weddings and quinceañeras (coming-of-age celebrations for young Mexican women).

“Spokane has a very small, but growing, Mexican population,” says Meyer. “You see multiple stores down in Central Washington and when you come to Spokane, to be honest, you see two stores” – not to mention, he notes, a lack of products from Central and South America.

Belonging to a food-loving family of Mexican in-laws and 30 years of experience in the baking industry inspired Meyer to fill that niche.

Meyer is most excited about offering tamales and his wife’s salsa, which are already a hit among family and friends.

If “December 14th at the latest” is too long a wait for your share of the tamales, Meyer hinted that they’re already making them to order with a variety of fillings. We’re just saying… in case you’re brainstorming easy ways to feed holiday guests. — ERIKA PRINS

Mercado del Pueblo, 1814 N. Division, opens mid-December, Mon-Sat 7 am-6 pm, Sun 12 pm-5 pm. Call 327-2856 or e-mail pueblospokane@msn.com.

Natural start

Eating “green” is hip, but not hip enough to keep a much-loved local organic café afloat.

Just as Main Market Co-op prepares to open, another business selling organic, locavore food will close. Natural Start Café, near Gonzaga University, served its last customers on Sunday. When it re-opens as a “college-hangout” coffee joint, it will no longer carry exclusively organic products — most of which come from within a 30-mile radius of Spokane — in the way that Natural Start did.

Citing financial hardship, co-owner Marc Gauthier is selling his share of the business to his partner. Gauthier and his business partner, Gib Sharpe, believe that the hip-coffee-shop model will be more lucrative. “We’re going to take a break from baking,” Shape says. He’ll contract with Taste for all the baked goods and continue serving Doma Coffee.

But for Gauthier, opening Natural Start two years ago was more about promoting the organic, local lifestyle than owning a business. If it’s not about the movement, he’s not interested.

So Gauthier will instead direct his energy toward other businesses in Spokane pursuing the same mission — namely Coffee Social (113 W. Indiana Ave.) and the Main Market Co-op (opening soon at 44 W. Main Ave.). “I would like to see the organic community communicating better,” he says, pointing to the large number of small local farmers markets as an example of poor coordination in the local and organic foods movement: “It’s frustrating when even the people who are on your team are fighting.”

Gauthier says Spokane is a tough market in which to sell the organic and local concept. “It is an uphill battle here in Spokane and we knew that starting off,” he says. “We’re the only place in town selling free-range, organic chicken anything, and [Subway across the street] is booming all day.”

He’d hoped to see that battle through, but in the end, couldn’t continue to make ends meet. “It was just numbers,” he says. “I basically couldn’t afford to wait for Spokane to catch up.”

In late August, The Inlander spoke with Gauthier about the “buy local” label, a concept he says corporations have cashed in on to the detriment of consumers. The word “local” is now thrown around with no real definition, and corporations lobby to ease standards for the USDA “organic” label, he says, “diluting” its meaning.

Then, Gauthier said the shop was “surviving,” having intentionally positioned itself to compete with a Starbucks in hopes that their comparable prices and locavore ethos would give them an edge among social justice-savvy Gonzaga students. But consumers rarely distinguish between, say, partially fair-trade coffee from Starbucks and a salad from Natural Start made with greens grown just outside of Spokane. That makes it tough, Gauthier says, to compete with Starbucks’ advertising budget and brand recognition. “Corporations are to blame. That’s who I blame. I blame Starbucks,” he says. “I think this corporate model we’ve set up is failing us — we’re setting ourselves up for a huge failure because we don’t produce anything [locally] anymore.”

While the hegemony of Starbucks is a factor in the difficulties any small local coffee shop has staying open, the closing of Natural Start raises questions about the ability of the burgeoning locavore movement to sustain itself in Spokane. – ERIKA PRINS

The café formerly known as Natural Start, 1718 N. Hamilton, will reopen Dec. 1. Call 483-3366 for information and hours of operation.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Family fun

“We serve fun at Shakey’s, also pizza. Shakey’s!”

The old ad jingle evokes memories of crew cut teens in Bermuda shorts and horn rim glasses, all piling into a wood-paneled van with their surfboards. In California in the ’60s, SHAKEY’S was where you hung out, mostly for the pizza and the irreverence. (Sample vintage sign: “In case of fire, remain calm and stay seated until all employees have left the building.”)

In the ’60s and ’70s, there were a couple of Shakey’s outlets on East Sprague; in the mid-’80s, there were a couple more on East Francis. Now the “Pizza Parlor and Ye Public House” has returned — and they’re still making their own pizza dough on the premises, fresh daily.

Steve Hersey, who owns the new Northpointe Shakey’s, says, “Everybody has a Shakey’s story — like standing on the bench and peering through the window as the dough was being made.”

Hersey tells of families driving in from the Tri-Cities and Seattle just for the taste. (Nearly all of Shakey’s U.S. locations are in California.)

The menu features appetizers, a salad bar, fried chicken (eight pieces with Mojos for $16), nine specialty pizzas (from Ultimate Meat to Garden Veggie, both thin-crust and pan, $7.50-$21), make-your-own pizzas ($4-$19), kids’ meals ($5), family meals and party packages.

Everything caters to large gatherings and family fun: the sports-bar nook (beer and wine only, but with big TVs), the arcade games in the next room (win long snakes of tickets on the Spin-N-Win!), the long-bench seating.

When Hersey says that he likes to “bring in the large groups,” he means it. Got 20 people you need to feed fast? Get four one-topping pizzas, two dozen pieces of fried chicken and Mojo potatoes (thin, lightly battered and fried potato slices) for $110. (It’s on the menu.)

From the oddball slogans to the fun room, from the uniformed sports teams slurping down soft drinks to the nostalgic gray hairs cuddling their grandchildren, it’s clear that Shakey’s is fixated on making sure that you have fun.

Oh, and they also serve pizza. — MICHAEL BOWEN

Shakey’s Pizza Parlor, 9602 N. Newport Hwy., is open Sun-Thu 11 am-10 pm, Fri-Sat 11 am-11 pm. Call 464-0200.

Spirit's on

Soulful Soups is open under new ownership and a new name — well, an addendum to the old name. R.J. Portmann and Julles Messman bought the restaurant last summer and spent a few weeks learning the ropes before closing to make some minor changes. If the crowd on opening day is any indication, soup lovers are happy to see Soulful Soups back in business.

The new look includes bar-height bistro-style tables and chairs in a bold-red color theme. The front counter was revamped to make space for the beverages that will be part of the bar, Soulful Spirits, opening in two weeks. Nooks built into the walls showcase Grey Goose vodka and other libations that will be available when the bar opens.

Soulful Soups returns with all of the previous favorites, including house-made beer bread to go along with the rotating selection of daily soups. The menu is simple, with two sizes of soup, paninis and croissant sandwiches, ranging from $6.75 to $9. Regularly featured soups include spicy mac ’n’ cheese (the ultimate comfort food), clam chowder and tomato bisque. Specialty salads include a cranberry, walnut and feta cheese salad for $7. Great Harvest multi-grain rolls and bread bowls are coming soon.

The real change is evident after 3 pm, when SOULFUL SOUPS AND SPIRITS showcases the second half of its name. Lights will dim and Soulful Spirits will offer a selection of wines, beers and spirits from Washington, Idaho and Montana, along with a food menu that Portmann describes as “tapas-style snacks, but more eclectic.” Each menu item has a story, gathered from Portmann’s and Messman’s travels and life adventures. Customers are encouraged to share dishes from the menu, which will be offered in what Portmann calls “social portions” — enough food to be shared by the number of people at the table. The bar will also host wine tastings and other events. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

Soulful Soups and Spirits, 117 N. Howard St., is open Mon-Sat 10:30 am-3 pm. When the bar opens in few weeks, Spirits will be open Mon-Wed until midnight and Thu-Sat until 2 am. Call 459-1190.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Community Thanksgiving

Chefs from the Davenport, Latah Bistro, Santé, Wild Sage, Catered for You and Scratch have all volunteered to carve up 150 turkeys that will be served at the The Women’s and Children’s Free Restaurant’s Thanksgiving Dinner on Tuesday, Nov. 17. “They can break down a bird in 12 minutes, and it looks great,” says Marlene Alford, executive director.

It takes a small army of volunteers to prepare 846 pounds of mashed potatoes, 65 gallons of gravy, Caesar salad, green beans, sweet potatoes, cranberries, pumpkin pie and the numerous other dishes that will be on the menu.

In addition to the volunteer staff in the kitchen (including one volunteer who grew and dried the sage for the stuffing), several local businesses have pitched in. Spokane’s Pawn 1 is sponsoring the event. Darigold is lending refrigerated trucks for extra cold storage, and the pumpkin desserts will be baked in the convection ovens at Meals on Wheels. “There’s a community teamwork feel that’s important to everyone involved,” says Alford.

This year, for the first time, the Free Restaurant is adding a second site to its annual Thanksgiving feast (everyone is welcome — not just women and children). Alford is expecting 500-700 diners at the Free Restaurant and another 700-800 guests at the East Central Community Center.

“We don’t cut any corners. We do all of the extra nice things — like nametags that allow people to visit,” says Alford, who strives to create a sense of community and not just a free meal. She notes that many come for the companionship as much as they do for the food.

In addition to the big event, the Free Restaurant serves dinner to women and children on Tuesdays-Wednesdays at 3 pm, and Friday lunch and Fresh Market for take home produce at 12:30 pm. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

Thanksgiving Dinner will take place on Tuesday, Nov. 17, from 3-7 pm at two locations: The Women’s and Children’s Free Restaurant at 1620 N. Monroe St. (inside St. Paul’s Methodist Church) and at the East Central Community Center, 500 S. Stone St. Free. Call 324-1995.

Bones goes dry

When The Inlander marched out its “Nuthin’ Fancy” cover story, we used Lazy Bones Barbecue as prime, juicy proof that in times of recession, casual restaurants thrived.

Oops.

Call the Lazy Bones number today and it will ring and ring and ring. And ring. Tuesday, Nov. 3, was Lazy Bones last day, owner John Fletcher says.

“There was a lot of factors.” Fletcher says, “It was an expensive location, the recession, we were under capitalized.”

Fletcher had been impressed by the solid, consistent business when Lazy Bones opened. “It’s slowed down in September,” Fletcher said back in late September. “I’m not sure if it’s a seasonal thing.”

That makes some sense. Barbecue is a summer-style food and may not fit with the soggy months of fall. And where the open rugged interior captured the spirit and light of summer, in the dark of the encroaching winter, it just seemed gloomy.

There may have been other problems: When Latah Bistro Chef David Blaine announced Lazy Bones’ opening on his From the Back Kitchen blog, three of the 10 comments were complaints about the parking.

Anyone who’s been tried to find parking at the Regal Pond strip mall understands the problem.

“It’s tough,” neighboring Twigs Bistro manager Rob Graham said. “People have to park on the street. There’s so many different restaurants in the strip here.” But Fletcher doesn’t blame parking.

“I wish I could say that was part of it,” Fletcher says. “We had lots of slow lunches were there were plenty of open parking places around.”

Wheat Montana, the previous tenant in Lazy Bones’ location, also closed in less than year. — DANIEL WALTERS

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Sunrise for Vito

It might take as much time for the distinctive smell of Market Spice tea to let go its hold on the former Sunshine Trader restaurant as it will for diners to discover that the Coeur d’Alene location has been newly transformed into VITO’S ITALIAN. When it does, this place has the potential to fill a niche for Italian food vacated by the recently closed Wine Cellar and to give lunch-goers a quieter, grown-up alternative to Tomato Street.

Dishes like Salsiccia Peperone (mild Italian sausage, sweet peppers and onions atop spaghetti with white wine/garlic scampi, $14) and Osso Bucco ($22) will appeal to hearty eaters. Lighter fare includes orange-glazed Arancia Chicken over spinach, with almonds and fire-roasted sweet peppers ($10).

For lunch, sandwiches predominate, with choices like the Italian grinder with prosciutto, salami, ham, pepperoni and provolone; the Caprese Wrap with mozzarella and marinated veggies; and the classic meatball or sausage sub ($8-$10). Oven-baked pita bread “pizza” has an Italian twist with fresh basil, Roma tomato, parmesan and chèvre ($8).

Everything is made from scratch, including traditional soups and daily desserts whipped up by Chef Rich Grow, whose New York roots lend authenticity to his delicious New York-style cheesecake. Owners Vito and Joy Barbieri give it an authentic Italian spin with their family recipes and a cozy dining area with dimmed lighting, images of Italian villas, and a Tuscany-inspired color scheme.

Although the Barbieris have owned Sunshine Trader since 2006, it’s only been Vito’s for a few months. After all, Sunshine Trader had previously enjoyed nearly 30 years in a town plagued by turnover in the casual dining market. And it’s hardly a central location — camouflaged by tall pines, set back from the busy health care-oriented stretch of Ironwood between 95 and Northwest Boulevard, neither downtown nor mid-town. It is, however, super-close to the freeway, making it a convenient location for diners both locally and out-of-town.

With a grand opening in the works, a small but reasonable wine and beer list and well-trained, friendly wait staff, they might just become your new favorite Italian family restaurant. — CARRIE SCOZZARO

Vito’s Italian, 1116 W.
Ironwood Dr., Coeur d’Alene, is open Mon-Thu 10 am-4 pm for lunch, 5-9 pm for dinner; Fri-Sat 5-9 pm. Call (208)
667-1233 or visit
www.vitositalian.com.

Comfy, Victorian

I should’ve known that the fireplace was going to be trouble. To call myself hot-blooded conveys the wrong image, but seriously, I don’t generally need an external heat source to keep warm.

Quite the opposite.

And so, usually, when I walk into a new place, I scope the fireplaces and set up camp as far from them as possible.

It’s just that, at Left Bank Wine Bar, there’s a fainting sofa parked right across from the hearth.

And that sofa … just … looked so. Damn. Comfortable.

(Spoiler alert: It was.)

It’s the duty of any coziness-concerned establishment — and Left Bank is such a place — that the first bite of autumn brings a roaring fire, and so, on this early October evening, the fireplace was in full blaze.

Quickly enough, my heat-related discomfort was offset by shock at the happy hour prices ($5 wine glasses, 10 beers at $5 and under, including the Dogfish Head Pumpkin Ale that Joel Smith loved so much in our Dining Guide) and generous portions. The flights on the night in question seemed like full pours.

We ordered two appetizers to accompany the quick after-work drunk and the thing started to feel like a proper fête. The cheese plate with the server’s suggestions of Humboldt Fog, Tallegio and Vache Fermier ($10) got more robust when upsized with prosciutto and salami (an extra $6). The Gorgonzola honey bruschetta ($8), though, with its nice interplay of sweet and tart on a wonderfully toasted medallion of baguette, got everybody swooning. (Good thing I scoped out the fainting sofa.)

This is simple, well-built, tasty food, a thoughtful counterpart to the well-chosen, well-priced wines and microbrews. The same goes for the comfortable, rich-looking environment.

Though it’s now long in the tooth, the enduring legacy of the whole shabby chic trend will be that it has put people at ease with the idea that ornate décor needn’t feel stodgy, and certainly needn’t be uncomfortable.

Left Bank isn’t shabby chic or anything. There’s no chipping paint in sight. Everything is nicely appointed — velvety damask drapery, adorable little chandeliers, that fainting sofa, etc. But without a doubt, the concept of cozy Victoriana (at less-than-Gilded Age prices during happy hour) is in full effect. — LUKE BAUMGARTEN

Left Bank Wine Bar, 108 N. Washington St., Suite 105, is open Mon-Fri 11am to “late in the evening,” and Sat from 4 pm to “late in the evening.” Happy Hour is 3-6 pm during the week.