Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Turn it over

Behind the beautiful, shiny new kiosk housed just inside the newly constructed Catholic Charities building is the NEW LEAF BAKERY CAFÉ, the public face of an employment and job-skill enhancement program for homeless and low-income women, operated by Transitions.

The women receive individualized training in food services — both front and back of house — while producing reasonably priced pastries and salads (organic and sustainable, when feasible).

It’s about living in right relationship.

Doma — fair trade, certified organic — is the coffee of choice, be it drip ($1.50, 12 oz.) or my 16-ounce iced hazelnut mocha ($4), which was deliciously robust with a just-right blend of coffee, chocolate and hazelnut.

A perfect accompaniment is the Signature Cookie ($0.75): huge peanuts, dried cherries, chocolate chips and flakes of coconut, all baked together in a sweet and crumbly dough. “It’s the best of everything,” says café manager Kristen Speller.

Speller trains women in front-of-house operations — customer service, dishing up food, making lattes, and making change. “I’m giving back, because life’s been good to me,” she says with a wide smile.

In keeping with the notion of right relationship and caring for the Earth, you won’t find boutique water here. “I don’t believe in bottled water,” says Speller, citing numerous problems caused by the ubiquitous plastic containers. She reluctantly carries a small selection of bottled juices, but to-go cups and utensils are biodegradable, and there are glass plates, cups and bowls for in-house dining.

The café menu is a work in progress with several rotating choices including fresh fruit salad, pasta salads and one of my favorites, fresh pea salad ($3.50/$4.50). Made with smoky bacon, sliced celery, bits of red onion and lots of fresh peas in a mayo-based dressing, this is reminiscent of the best summer potluck fare.

A fine choice with any of the salads is a fist-sized roll ($1.75) made from challah bread. Rich with eggs, it has a light, airy texture that’s slightly sweet and yeasty. “It makes a beautiful sandwich,” says Chef-instructor Vira Melendez-Redman.

The café is opening “softly,” with a grand opening planned later in May. The dining area will be dedicated to the memory of former Spokane Catholic Charities Director Donna Hanson, who died of cancer in 2005. Begun with grants, the training program aims to become self-sustaining through revenue from the café and catering service.

Suddenly it hit me that I’m not just eating well by being here. I’m doing good.

— M.C. PAUL

New Leaf Bakery Café, 12 E. Fifth Ave (in the new Catholic Charities building), is open Mon-Fri 8 am-1 pm. Visit help4women.org or call 496-7298. (For catering information, call 496-0396.)

Eye-popping cuisine

I first visited GINGER ASIAN BISTRO soon after it opened, tagging along with two friends who know their way around a sushi bar. I started off easy, with calamari and a 007 roll (spicy tuna, cucumber, fish roe), but then I came face to face — literally — with the sweet shrimp sushi ($6): large, meaty tail-on shrimp, on mounds of rice, and a glass filled with deep-fried shrimp heads. All eyes at the table were on me, including those of the shrimp. I grabbed one of the heads, wrangled the wayward antennae and bit down. It was surprisingly delicate, lightly crispy and tasted like… shrimp. Popcorn shrimp. With eyeballs. (Those were light and crispy, too.)

But don’t be misled about Ginger, located in the star-crossed space across Grand from the Cathedral of St. John. Most items don’t require a dare to eat — and even then, it’s only the first time. The menu offers more than 30 different sushi rolls, from basic to exotic ($3-$14) — and if you don’t see what you want, the sushi chef will be glad to create something special. A long list of seafood varieties is available as sushi or sashimi, including yellowtail, toro, mackerel and white fish. I sampled the surprising mirugai — the large Northwest bivalve also known as the geoduck — and it tasted like clean, cold ocean.

Co-owner Jing Ou Sun came to Spokane a little more than a year ago from Los Angeles, where she operated a combination Chinese/sushi café. She partnered with Bin Liu, of Ding How in Liberty Lake, to bring that blend of traditional Chinese-style dishes and sushi to Spokane.

Chinese-style entrées range from moo goo gai pan ($13) and the seafood hot pot ($16) to spicy Szechwan combos ($12-$16) and the Mongolian beef tenderloin ($12). The calamari appetizer ($8) — tempura-fried strips — is served with a tangy and unusual ginger-lime dipping sauce, and the vibrantly hued seaweed salad ($4) is a fresh execution of the sushi-house favorite.

Japanese-style bento box meals are also available both at lunch ($10-$11) and dinner ($14-$19), and several Chinese dishes are offered as lunch specials. In addition to tea, beverages include a good selection of wine, beer and sake — including the refreshing yogurt sake, a drink I’ll be keeping an eye on come summer.

— ANN M. COLFORD

Ginger Asian Bistro, 1228 S. Grand Blvd., is open Tue-Thu 11 am-9 pm, Fri-Sat 11 am-10 pm, Sun 11 am-9 pm. Reservations recommended on weekends. Call 315-5201.

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Dig deep

The buzz is out there — we can feel it. The snow is gone (finally!), the sun is shining, and people are itching to get outside and work in the garden. The Inland Northwest has always had a cadre of dedicated gardeners, but this year — thanks to the local/organic/sustainable food movement, growing health awareness, and concerns over the safety of industrial agriculture — even people whose thumbs are far from green are talking about digging in the dirt. After all, you can’t get much more local than a tomato grown in your own back yard.

Or in a community garden in your neighborhood. For instance, Coeur d’Alene’s first community garden, SHARED HARVEST, kicks off this weekend with a workday (9 am-noon), unveiling ceremony (2 pm) and plot sign-up day, Saturday, April 25 (weather permitting). The garden has taken over three formerly vacant city lots in — appropriately — the Garden District neighborhood, and property owner Marshall Mend has reserved the land for use by the garden for at least the next two years.

Water conservation will be a big part of the garden — each of the garden’s 53 plots (4 feet by 10 feet) will have a drip irrigation system for efficient water use, and there will be a xeriscape (drought-tolerant) demonstration garden on site. The city is pitching in with help to offset the cost of both the irrigation system and the xeriscape garden, and several local small businesses have committed skills and service.

In addition, the garden’s planners envision donating about half of the produce grown in the garden to area food banks, soup kitchens and transitional homes through the Community Roots program.

The workday and plot sign-up for Shared Harvest Community Garden, 10th St. and Foster Ave., Coeur d’Alene, is Saturday, April 25, starting at 9 am. Call Kim Normand at (208) 664-0608.

Spokane’s community gardens are getting rolling for the season as well — in fact, the Hemlock and Fairview Community Garden, adjacent to the Transitional Living Center, is having a cleanup and garden bed-allotment day on Sunday, April 26, starting at 1 pm. And Project HOPE is hosting an Earth Day cleanup event at the corner of Maxwell and Belt in West Central on Saturday, April 25, from 9-11 am. Visit www.spokanegardens.com for details.

We know there’s more happening in our area around community gardens, and we’re trying to learn everything you know about it. If you’re organizing a community garden in your neighborhood — or you’re interested in volunteering your time, donating supplies or even donating a plot of land to the cause — we want to hear from you. E-mail ann@inlander.com, and tell us what you’re up to.

— ANN M. COLFORD

Catch the wave

“There’s no surfing in Riverside.” That was one memorable advertisement for In-N-Out Burgers, California’s first hamburger drive-thru. While there’s no surfing in Rathdrum, Idaho, either, SURF CITY BURGERS serves up classic American cuisine — burgers, dogs, fried food — like you might find at mom-and-pop stands along the beach.

Owner Gary Kender — who used to surf as a young man in his native Huntington Beach, Calif. — features a burger style as emblematic of the West Coast as White Castle (square) burgers are of the East. Basic burgers start at an unbelievable $2.49. The double-double is a 4-inch stack of 100 percent beef, with or without onions, and all the trimmings — aka, animal style ($3.75; combo, $5.75).

Surf City Burgers — also expanding to Post Falls in the next month or so — appeals to nostalgia. Try Philly cheesesteaks ($6, combo), jumbo dogs ($2.25), real ice cream shakes and malts ($2.50-$3) and burger options that include bacon-cheese, mushroom-Swiss, pastrami, chili and — of course — Hawaiian.

The surfer theme is typical for Kender, who started Longboard Burgers in Coeur d’Alene (now run by his ex-wife) and owned Schoonerville — with its Hawaiian mural — in Hayden for 13 years. And he likes having those local connections. Housed inside Stein’s IGA (in a space he shares with Subway), Surf City offers discounts to nearby Lakeland students. Most meals, however, are already affordable: 13 combos under $5, nothing more than $6.

It’s all about low prices but good quality. Kender hand-breads his chicken strips, finger steaks and onion rings ($3-$5). And he cuts fresh potatoes for his fries — which, like most things on the menu, can be ordered with chili.

Convenience is another big draw. They average a four-minute response time, says Kender, smiling as he recognizes a customer approaching, calling his order out even before the gentleman gets to the counter. Yes, it’s that kind of place, like family.

“Food is about family,” he agrees, noting that he cooks gourmet, sit-down meals for his five children every night. “I’m passionate about food, about everything I do.”

— CARRIE SCOZZARO

Surf City Burgers, 16102 North Hwy. 41 (inside Stein’s IGA), Rathdrum, Idaho, is open Mon-Sat 11 am-7 pm, Sun 11 am-4 pm. Call (208) 687-0492.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

A good year

The economy is a mess, but people still have to eat. Tana Rekofke, owner of the newly opened VINTAGES AT 611, says she “always wanted to have a restaurant” — although she admits that her timing may be less than perfect. Still, her mission is simple: “Keep prices moderate so that people can enjoy eating here [frequently] — not just for special occasions.”

The lunch menu features sandwiches and burgers — like the Signature Vintage Burger ($9), Kobe beef served up with jalapeno peppers, smoky cheddar cheese, and all the trimmings — plus pastas, soups and salads. Manager Deborah Rathburn suggests the Greek orzo and shrimp salad ($9), and its colors, textures and flavors blend brilliantly: Large slices of crisp cucumber, strips of red and green bell pepper, and slices of purple onion join grape tomatoes and pitted Greek olives to give texture and depth to the simple bed of spinach topped with orzo and feta in a delicate vinaigrette. Four large shrimp and a garnish of fanned perfectly ripe avocado complete the dish.

Dinner appetizer choices vary in from $14 for the cheese platter to the cheesy Gorgonzola Frites ($5). A selection of steaks, seafood, pastas and entrée salads rounds out the dinner choices.
The dining space is large and beautifully appointed. The kitchen, however, is small — meaning, Executive Chef Mike Dodd explains, that everything is ordered and delivered every day.

“We try to stick to the prime ingredients,” says Dodd. “We want those beautiful natural flavors to come through.” And they do, in entrées like the 16-ounce bone-in ribeye in a wild mushroom demi-glace, served with garlic mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetable ($27).

There’s a relatively small cocktail list, but the real draw is the wine. Extensive and continually changing, the wine menu is amazing: 67 by the bottle, with prices for every budget from the $90 Cakebread Cellars Merlot on the high end to the Quarra Chardonnay ($15) and La Palma Cabernet ($17) on the low end. By the glass, 18 choices range from the 2007 Mionetto II Prosecco ($5) — Italy’s favorite sparkling wine — to the big and beautiful 2006 Nelms Road Melot ($9), produced in Washington.

Basking in the afterglow, I overhear a group of women complimenting Rekofke, saying they’ll return. A month in, her “mission” seems to be working.

— M.C. PAUL

Vintages at 611, at 611 E. 30th Ave. (in the Manito Shopping Center), is open Tue-Thu 11 am-10 pm, Fri-Sat 11 am-midnight. Call 624-3202.

Flicks, sips, earth food

The SEEDS OF CHANGE FILM SERIES, exploring the intersection of social justice and the local food system, kicks off tonight at 7 pm at the Porch Church (1814 W. Broadway Ave.) in West Central with a showing of Food Fight: Revolution Never Tasted So Good, a documentary about the emergence of the organic food movement and featuring journalist Michael Pollan and legendary restaurateur Alice Waters. Admission is free with a donation of food or seeds. Visit www.projecthopespokane.org or call 328-6527.

Project HOPE Spokane, a nonprofit that works with at-risk youth and is working to develop a community gardening program in the neighborhood, is sponsoring the film series, which will continue on Thursdays at 7 pm through the end of May.

On Friday, April 17, at noon in the City Council Chambers (808 W. Spokane Falls Blvd.), Councilman Richard Rush’s lunchtime film series continues with another food-related film: “Food Miles,” a 30-minute documentary, examines the impact of food transportation on health and the environment. A panel discussion follows. Call 625-6715.

Now this is some news we can get behind: WHITESTONE WINERY, the estate winery in Wilbur, Wash., is opening a tasting room in downtown Spokane just south of the Rocket Bakery at First and Cedar — in time to be part of the annual Spring Barrel Tasting coming up on Mothers Day weekend. Winemaker Michael Haig says the tasting room will be open regular hours in addition to hosting special events, like artist receptions during the monthly First Friday art walk and wine release parties.

A grand opening celebration is set for Friday and Saturday (April 17-18), along with the launch of the latest edition of the winery’s Pieces of Red blend. Other current releases will be available for sampling, along with cheese and bread.

The best news? The tasting room is just three blocks from our office. This makes us very happy.
Regular hours at Whitestone Winery’s tasting room, 111 S. Cedar St., will be Thu-Sat, noon-6 pm. Visit www.whitestonewinery.com or call 838-2427.

Slow Food Spokane River hosts two EARTH DAY DINNERS this week. On Saturday, April 18, at 5:30 pm, the group joins with Get Lit! at Santé for the Earth First Dinner, prepared by Chef Jeremy Hansen. The event is also a reception for author and activist David Suzuki, who speaks as part of Get Lit! on Saturday evening (see page 37). The meal alone is $18, and seats are going fast; visit www.brownpapertickets.com/event/58642 for tickets. Then on Wednesday, April 22 — Earth Day — the group gathers at the Glover Mansion at 6 pm for “At the Table,” a family-friendly dinner with local food producers and the organizers of the Main Market Co-op. Visit www.brownpapertickets.com/event/57793 to buy tickets.

The Crossing Community Center in Millwood teams up with the Millwood Farmers Market and Millwood Presbyterian Church for a series of FOOD CLASSES called “Cultivating Community,” to be held on four Sunday afternoons at the center (8919 E. Euclid Ave., Millwood). The first class, set for Sunday, April 19, at 4 pm is “Vegetable Gardening in the Inland Northwest,” with featured instructors Bob and Bonnie Gregson, authors of Rebirth of the Small Family Farm. Future classes will tackle home canning and food preservation (with County Master Food Preservers), baking artisan breads (with Tom and Louise Tuffin of Arabesque Farms and Bakery) and how to eat local in the Inland Northwest (with Spokane locavores Craig and Nancy Goodwin). Classes are free. Visit www.millwoodcrossing.org or call 924-2350.

— ANN M. COLFORD

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Celluloid slippers

EVENT Thrillin’ Grillin’
Few sandwiches recall the flavors of childhood better than a grilled cheese sandwich. The basic formula is simple: sliced bread, the right kind of cheese, and butter for grilling.
But as adults, we crave more. Vegetables, perhaps? More than one cheese? Seasonings? A creative chef could come with any number of variations on the theme. And that’s the challenge of the first-ever GROWN-UP GRILLED CHEESE GRILL-OFF, set for Saturday at Taste Café downtown. Six of Spokane’s chefs — Chana Hershberger of Taste, David Blaine of Latah Bistro, Jason Rex from Scratch, Jeremy Hansen of Santé, Jonathan Sweatt from the Downriver Grill and Mike Dodd of the newly opened Vintages at 611 — will go head to head in the event. They’ll serve up the sandwiches to a panel of five judges, who’ll pronounce their decision on whose grilled cheese is tops. We hear a rumor that there will be samples…
— ANN M. COLFORD

The chefs will grill their cheeses at Taste Café, 180 S. Howard St., on Saturday, April 11, starting at 9 am. Visit www.tastecafespokane.com or call 468-2929.
If the stars align, the faithful second-run theater-goers of Spokane will soon have the privilege of drinking a nice, cold brewsky while watching a flick at the GARLAND THEATRE. (And you know here in the newsroom we’re doing everything in our power to align said stars, including hiring an army of astrologers.) Yes, the Garland is gearing up to become a theater pub.

In late March, the theater applied for a snack bar liquor license, which if approved will allow the theater to serve beer in its original container (bottles and cans and such). Owner Katherine Fritchie says they’ll provide both domestic beer and microbrews, pleasing all palates.

“But it’s not for sure yet,” Fritchie says. “It’s hard for theaters to get licenses because of the lighting issue.” Fritchie is currently trying to find the sweetest of spots: bright enough to see who’s drinking and check IDs, but dark enough so as not to bother people watching the movie. Anne Radford, with the state liquor control board, says it has to be bright enough for enforcement officers to read 8-point type (like on your driver’s license).

That’s complicated. We’ve got an idea: Just designate some movie times for the over-21 set and check ID when the beer is sold. Voila. Astrologers no longer needed.

— NICHOLAS DESHAIS

Lift our spirits

We knew Dry Fly Distilling had developed quite a following locally for their vodka and gin (and soon whiskey) made right here from Eastern Washington grains, but now the whole world knows about them. DRY FLY VODKA topped 70 finalists — including vodkas from Russia, Finland, Canada and the U.S. — to win “Best Vodka” (and a double gold medal) at the annual San Francisco World Spirits Competition in late March. Congrats, guys — we raise a glass in your direction.

— ANN M. COLFORD

Thrillin' grillin'

Few sandwiches recall the flavors of childhood better than a grilled cheese sandwich. The basic formula is simple: sliced bread, the right kind of cheese, and butter for grilling.

But as adults, we crave more. Vegetables, perhaps? More than one cheese? Seasonings? A creative chef could come with any number of variations on the theme. And that’s the challenge of the first-ever GROWN-UP GRILLED CHEESE GRILL-OFF, set for Saturday at Taste Café downtown. Six of Spokane’s chefs — Chana Hershberger of Taste, David Blaine of Latah Bistro, Jason Rex from Scratch, Jeremy Hansen of Santé, Jonathan Sweatt from the Downriver Grill and Mike Dodd of the newly opened Vintages at 611 — will go head to head in the event. They’ll serve up the sandwiches to a panel of five judges, who’ll pronounce their decision on whose grilled cheese is tops. We hear a rumor that there will be samples…

— ANN M. COLFORD

The chefs will grill their cheeses at Taste Café, 180 S. Howard St., on Saturday, April 11, starting at 9 am. Visit www.tastecafespokane.com or call 468-2929.

South bridge savvy

If anyone can put 41 SOUTH on the map it’s likely to be Sandpoint-area restaurateurs Mel and Claudia Dick. They own Café Trinity, 219 Lounge and the seasonal Trinity at Willow Bay, all uniquely positioned personalities in the local dining and entertainment scene.

Located on Lakeshore Drive where Highway 95 crosses the Long Bridge, 41 South already has several things going for it (which the previous two owners no doubt recognized). Its Lake Pend Oreille frontage means both indoor and outdoor dining areas have gorgeous views. Inside rustic floor-to-ceiling wood paneling and mammoth fireplaces are offset with elegant black and maroon linen, old French advertising posters on the walls, and a smattering of jazz in the background. In the kitchen is top-notch chef Jeremy Heidel, formerly of Café Trinity and the Idaho Club, and the wait staff is friendly, knowledgeable and attentive.

Located adjacent to the Lodge at Sandpoint — a 24-room, $100-plus-per-night hotel — the restaurant is decidedly upscale. The seasonal menu emphasizes well-presented, unusual variations on familiar foods. For starters, try the Apricot Fire Shrimp Cocktail with huckleberry coulis ($6) or the Flat Bread Napoleon ($5): an island of layered bread, spinach, garlic, marinated tomato, artichoke and caramelized onion, topped with feta cheese mousse and surrounded by a moat of balsamic vinegar and basil oil.

Dinner entrées include choice of soup or house salad — or upgrade to a choice like the Roasted Roots salad ($7), a healthful blend of beets, carrots, parsnips, turnips and fresh fennel bulb, garnished with arugula, dill and tomato vinaigrette.

Main courses include pasta, meat and seafood choices: fettuccini adobo, with chipotle and grilled chicken, shrimp or salmon ($17), or hearty beef stroganoff ($18); the classic steak Oscar ($33), or lamb chops marinated in mint pesto and garnished with fruit compote ($26). Seared scallops with saffron/vanilla bean/brandy cream sauce ($26) and a potato-crusted Chilean sea bass ($28) round out the seafood selections.

A separate menu affords more casual dining amongst overstuffed couches and cozy tables in the lounge, which is also an ideal place to share the abundant Sunday brunch ($15 adults, $6 children 10 and under).

— CARRIE SCOZZARO

41 South, at 41 Lakeshore Dr., Sandpoint, Idaho, is open Tue-Thu 4:30-9 pm, Fri-Sat 4:30-10 pm, Sun 10 am-2 pm. Visit www.41southsandpoint.com or call (208) 265-2000. Reservations recommended.