Wednesday, August 26, 2009

We're going nuts over it

Ice cream and chocolate — two of life’s most decadent pleasures. Now you can enjoy both at the same time with SPOKANDY’s new line of ice cream. The almost century-old chocolatier is teaming up with Mary Lou’s Homemade Ice Cream of Spokane Valley to offer eight flavors of ice cream with Spokandy’s goodies mixed in.

Spokandy recently remodeled its downtown location to include a larger retail area and room for the ice cream. “It’s something we’d talked about over the years,” says manager Natalie Vlasaty. They are also remodeling the wholesale area next door to allow customers to view the candy-making operations.

If you’re feeling a little nutty, then the vanilla ice cream with peanut brittle, macadamia nuts, coconut and white chocolate is just the answer. Or how about a scoop of coffee-flavored ice cream flecked with Spokandy’s dark chocolate? Grandma’s Maple Nut Cream features whole maple buttercreme candies mixed into maple ice cream. Peppermint Rainbow, one of the store’s bestsellers, features mint candy chunks in mint-flavored ice cream.

A generous scoop in a large waffle cone will cost you $3.50; two scoops, $5.50. A child-sized scoop is $2.50. If you’d prefer to indulge at home, pick up a half-gallon ($9) and one of Spokandy’s new dessert toppings: You can choose from caramel, butterscotch or chocolate truffle.

The seating area consists of two large sofas, minus any frills like tables, restrooms or a water fountain. But, hey, when you’re enjoying deliciously creamy, locally made ice cream with chunks of gooey goodness, surrounded by displays of fudge, almond bark and dark chocolate truffles, it’s hard to complain.

If you’re a coffee lover, you’ll be pleased to hear that Spokandy is working with Spokane coffee roaster Thomas Hammer on a new chocolate-flavored coffee to be sold by the pound, available sometime in September.

It’s nice to see local businesses working together, especially when they are combining all of my favorite things. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

Spokandy, at 1412 W. Third Ave., is open Mon-Fri 9 am-6 pm, Sat 10 am-6 pm and Sun 11 am-5 pm. Call 624-1969.

Get your licks in

Some foods just taste better out-of-doors. Ice cream, for example, on a warm summer evening is a sweet treat indeed, especially when rolled expertly into an icy cold mound and perched atop a crispy waffle cone. So when word got out that ROGER’S ICE CREAM AND BURGERS had reopened, it was no surprise to see the line snaking across the sidewalk on a recent August night.

Sure, the supermarket across the street has ice cream, maybe even Ben and Jerry’s or Haagen-Dazs, the stuff that reignited our love affair with this icy foodstuff. But as easy as it would be to pop into the market, it’s not the same.

At Roger’s, cones start at $1.50 and top out at $3.50 for a double, either cone or cup. There’s the usual strawberry and mint chip, and then the texturally laden pecan praline, bear claw and almond mocha fudge — 18 flavors in all, including huckleberry when it’s in season, and berry-pomegranate sorbet for those wanting something lighter.

We were there for the ice cream — but the smell of burgers on the griddle was heavenly, too. Burgers include lettuce, tomato, onion and special sauce (starting at $2.50), and fries are freshly made, not frozen ($1.50).

The menu hasn’t changed much from the previous ownership. A Coeur d’Alene landmark since the ’80s, Roger’s was recently reopened by Mark Randolph, who is the latest in a long line of owners since the restaurant was first established in Moscow in the 1940s.

Only outdoor seating is available — a few rows of benches on either side of the building — but that’s not a drawback: Folks seem preoccupied by their individual race to the bottom of the cone.
Their licking, biting and wiping methods are complex enough to warrant an anthropological study. Or maybe it’s more than that… maybe it’s something akin to reverie. We’re all lost in a rare little moment of icy cold joy. — CARRIE SCOZZARO

Roger’s, at 13th St. and Sherman Ave., Coeur d’Alene, is open Mon-Thu 11 am–9 pm, Fri-Sat 11 am-10 pm, and Sun 11 am-9:30 pm. Call (208) 930-4900.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

EVENTS - Of Dinners and Fairs

The midsummer cavalcade of food happenings continues this week with events across the region. Pullman celebrates all things lenticular this weekend (Aug. 21-22) with the NATIONAL LENTIL FESTIVAL, as noted in our Calendar (page 46), but that’s just the start. THE SCOOP (1001 W. 25th Ave.) will play host to the Flatbread Pizza Co.’s mobile wood-fired pizza oven again on Friday night, along with live music outside on the patio. Inside, of course, you’ll find the usual array of Brain Freeze ice cream flavors and made-onsite waffle cones.

On Saturday, the second annual MADELEINE’S STREET FAIR takes over the corner of Main Ave. and Wall St., next to the restaurant. Artisan vendors and musicians will fill Wall Street, which will be closed off to vehicular traffic, and Madeleine’s will be serving specials all day, along with pastries, cookies and delectables from the deli case.

If you’re feeling like a getaway, the LEAVENWORTH WINE TASTING FESTIVAL is set for Saturday (Aug. 22, from noon-6 pm) as well, at the Sleeping Lady Resort outside of Leavenworth. About two-dozen wineries from Central Washington (Leavenworth, Wenatchee, Chelan, Quincy) will show off their vintages, and there will be live music all day long. Tickets are $30 per person (or $50 per couple), available online (www.visitwashingtonfarms.com), or call the resort at (800) 574-2123.

One thing that separates chefs from the rest of us kitchen mortals (other than shallots and really sharp knives) is a mastery of sauces. The legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier, whose system of organizing the work of a commercial kitchen is still followed today, established what he called the five “mother sauces” — basic sauces that could inspire nearly endless variation — and these sauces continue to be taught in culinary schools everywhere. On Tuesday (Aug. 25, from 5:30-8:30 pm), Chef Jeremy Hansen will offer a COOKING CLASS AT SANTÉ on those five sauces. The class includes a recipe notebook and a group meal at the end of the evening. The cost is $75; send a message to mail@santespokane.com to reserve your spot — and don’t forget to bring along empty containers to take your creations home with you.

Finally, the Shared Harvest community garden in Coeur d’Alene is hosting its first fundraising dinner in the garden next weekend (Saturday, Aug. 29) — right at the peak of the growing season. The DINNER UNDER THE STARS kicks off with a silent auction at 6 pm, followed by dinner (prepared by a local chef) at 7 pm. There will be plenty of music, scads of local art for sale in the auction, and the full, lush beauty of the reclaimed garden (at 10th and Foster) all around. Organizer Kim Normand says the event is going as “green” as possible by using real dishes on loan from a local thrift shop. Tickets are a bargain at $25, available at the Art Spirit Gallery and Java on Sherman.

— ANN M. COLFORD

CASUAL - Twigs Stix With It

If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again. That seems to be the motto of the folks at STIX BAR & GRILL (formerly Twigs, Bin 98 Twenty and 98 Twenty Bistro). Reincarnated three times with two major remodels in less than two years, the restaurant is moving away from fine dining to a more casual neighborhood bar and grill.

“There was a vast misconception Bin 98 Twenty was too high-end,” explains sous chef Christian Chally.

The most recent remodel removed the wine display and added more open seating, giving Stix a less intimate, more approachable feel. A large bar space doubles as a daytime dining area.

The restaurant reopened in mid-July, and things seem to be going well. The regular customers still come, and people aren’t afraid to drop by in their work clothes, or bring their families. “We’ve easily doubled our business, almost overnight,” says Chally.

The bistro-fare menu of salads, sandwiches and pizzas ranges from $6 for appetizers to $17 for main dishes. The Greek salad and the muffuletta sandwich are favorites from the 98 Twenty menu. You’ll find comfort food like chicken wings and mac-and-cheese, alongside a truffle spinach salad and ahi tuna with mango vinaigrette.

Our server recommended the fish tacos ($11), featuring grilled halibut with black bean and corn salsa. While the tacos could have used a little more zip, the accompanying Caribbean chicken soup was flavorful with a sweet and spicy kick.

I was impressed with the pizzas ($11-$12), which are hand tossed and brick-oven baked for a perfect thin and crunchy crust. We opted for the classic pepperoni, but the Italian Junker and the Taco Pizza sounded tempting also.

It’s rare for any restaurant to successfully re-invent itself, but this one seems to be working. Let’s hope it Stix.

— KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

Stix Bar & Grill, 9820 N. Nevada St., is open Sun-Thu 11 am-11 pm, Fri-Sat 11 am-midnight. Call 468-9820.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Classes, fests and wine

Just in case you’ve hit the midsummer doldrums, several food-related events are on tap this week.

Economic stimulus is an important thing — and if the first round doesn’t do everything you wanted, then it’s time for a second round. At least that’s the theory behind TWARP II — the second edition of the Troubled Wine Assets Relief Program, led by wine guru Carl Carlsteen at the Rocket Market on Friday evening. Part of the ongoing Friday wine-class series, TWARP II will demonstrate that plenty of dang tasty wines are available for no more than $10 per bottle.

Sip 10 different bargain quaffers, accompanied by cheeses and La Brea breads, while Carlsteen holds forth on the virtues of each vintage and shares stories about the wineries.

Speaking of Rocket Market, it’s also the place for the Sunday Brunch With DJs, featuring food by Chef Shilo Pierce and Pastry Chef Dena Carr, complemented by tunes spun by a different guest DJ each week. The music runs 11 am-2 pm, but the food is available both earlier and later. This week’s tune-spinner is Breezy Brown.

The Post Falls Food Festival is set for this weekend, too, albeit in a new location — on Fourth Street by the Post Falls City Hall. Organizer Tim Mitchell of Mangia Catering says to expect plenty of live local music and a variety of food vendors, along with arts and crafts booths at this second annual event.

The Main Market Co-op will host a fundraiser at the Fox Theater next Thursday, Aug. 20, with readings by local authors Jess Walter and Cheryl-Anne Millsap plus musical performances by pianist Brad Greene and Kaylee Cole and her band. Food for the event is catered by the Glover Mansion, and there will be raffles for prizes as well.

Also next Thursday, Huckleberry’s will offer the first in a series of classes on food canning, led by new Executive Chef Anne Bauer and Bakery/Cheese Specialist Amy Clark. This class will explore pickling — “It’s not just for cucumbers!” they tell us — along with canning basics. Preserving local produce is the way for locavores to stay local during the lean winter months, not to mention a way to save on the grocery bill. But even more important, it’s the path toward tasty treats like spicy pickled green beans. Yum.

Finally, we hear that State Senate Majority Leader Lisa Brown of Spokane will be taking a turn as guest chef at Santé next Thursday; call the restaurant (315-4613) for more details. — ANN M. COLFORD

The TWARP II wine class will be held at Rocket Market, 726 E. 43rd Ave., on Friday, Aug. 14, at 7 pm. Cost is $20 (plus tax). Call 343-2253 to preregister.
The Post Falls Food Festival, on Fourth Street in Post Falls, Idaho, is set for Saturday-Sunday, Aug. 15-16. Visit postfallsfoodfest.wordpress.com.
“Local Artists for a Local Food Co-op” at the Fox Theater, 1001 W. Sprague, is Thursday, Aug. 20, at 6:30 pm. Cost is $25 until Aug. 14; $35, thereafter. Visit http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/72743 or call 624-1200.
Canning class at Huckleberry’s, 926 S. Monroe St., will be Thursday, Aug. 20, at 7 pm. Cost is $10 per person; must preregister and prepay. Call 624-1349.

Tiki sun

They blew into town this past winter like tropical winds bringing some welcome sunshine and Hawaiian-style barbecue to mid-town Coeur d’Alene. Then just as quickly, the storm passed and Teriyaki Tiki was closed. Now they’re back, the winds calmer now, as they settle into their recently approved-by-the-city location at Fifth and Spruce (behind the Corner Bar).

TERIYAKI TIKI is the Atteshi family’s latest endeavor after closing the Sunset Grill in Hayden a few years back. Daughter Tiara and mom Aggy are the ever-ready smiles at the counter of this takeout/outdoor-seating-only establishment. They’re joined by dad, Mic.

Aggy’s as likely to interject some of her native Filipino recipes into the mix as she is the Hawaiian fare she grew up on. She makes lumpia, or Filipino egg rolls (three for $4.50), once a week, offering them alongside such Hawaiian staples as kalua pork ($7.50).

The pan-Pacific approach is menu-wide. Hawaiian barbecue is the focus of Teriyaki Tiki, which serves plate lunches with two scoops of steamed, slightly sticky rice and a macaroni-potato salad hybrid. Pork, chicken and beef teriyaki ($7.50) are joined by Korean-style kalbi ribs ($9.25) and Japanese-inspired fried chicken katsu ($7.50).

Other island favorites include Loco Moco: a beef patty topped with egg and gravy ($5.50). And — what Hawaiian lunch would be complete without it? — handwritten signs announce Spam dishes, sometimes over eggs, sometimes marinated and served over a shaped mound of rice (aka, Spam sushi).

Sandwiches are a super deal at less than $5 for your basic hamburger, or choose a chicken katsu burger or a teriyaki pork burger. You almost want to order the mini Pupu platter (chicken katsu, teriyaki chicken or pork) just to be able to say “Pupu” — loosely translated to appetizer.
Save room for dessert. Haupia is a very, very firm coconut-based pudding that behaves like Jello ($2.25). The pineapple includes li hing mui ($2.25), a salty/tangy/sweet dried plum you (try to) suck on — almost as much of an acquired taste as Spam.

Call ahead to place an order and don’t forget to say mahalo (thank you!). — CARRIE SCOZZARO

Teriyaki Tiki, at Fifth and Spruce, Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, is open Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm, Sun 2-7 pm (summer hours). Call (208) 676-0123.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Brats in the vines

In past summers, Whitestone Winery hosted a catered sit-down dinner called Dine in the Vines, complete with live jazz, in the middle of their vineyard. The setting is spectacular — perched on a rocky down-slope on the south shore of Lake Roosevelt, the rich emerald vines are a shock of vibrant color amid the landscape’s stark geology — but it’s rugged and remote and lacks electrical power.

Delivering fancy food to guests in such a location was a huge challenge for everyone involved, says winemaker Michael Haig, but visitors raved about the event. While planning this year’s dinner, Haig had a revelation.

“What people remembered about the event were the views, the wine and the music,” he says. “The food was secondary. We thought, let’s do something that we can prepare ourselves.”

And what they can do is barbecue. Stocked with bratwurst and sausages from Egger’s and Sonnenberg’s, Haig and the rest of the Whitestone family will grill up a BORDEAUX BBQ in the vineyard on Saturday afternoon. Whitestone’s wines will flow freely, and 6’ Swing will entertain, but the atmosphere will be far more casual, more like an open house than a party with fixed hours.

“It’ll be all you can eat and all you can drink,” says Haig. “People don’t have to stay the whole time — they can come and go.” — ANN M. COLFORD

Whitestone Winery’s Bordeaux Barbecue in the vineyard is Saturday, Aug. 8, from 1-5 pm. Tickets are $55, available at the Spokane (111 S. Cedar St.) and Wilbur (115 NE Main St.) tasting rooms, online at whitestonewinery.com or by phone at 838-2427. Advance purchase is required.

Cobs of fun

A cob oven doesn’t burn corncobs for fuel. Nor does one use a cob oven solely to roast corn — although you could stick a few ears in and they’d be really tasty. No, “cob” is the name for a time-honored building material made of clay, straw and sand, mixed with water and formed into a rustic earthen dome. The small wood-fired ovens are used to bake old-style breads and pizzas.

Last fall, Riverfront Farm in West Central Spokane built a cob oven next to their community garden, as part of a natural building workshop linked to Project HOPE’s “Jobs Not Jails” program. Next Thursday, Riverfront Farm teams up with Slow Food Spokane River to host a COB OVEN PIZZA DINNER AND POTLUCK at the urban farm. The aim of the event is to raise awareness of both organizations while building relationships in the neighborhood and across the city.

The basic ingredients for making personal pizzas will be available, says Slow Food’s Jennifer Hall — thus the nominal fee of $5 — but people are welcome to bring along their own favorite toppings. “We’re also asking people to bring a side salad or dessert to share,” says Hall.
The Plaid Cats will provide live music during dinner — but only you can bring along the community spirit. — ANN M. COLFORD

Slow Food’s cob oven pizza dinner and potluck, at Riverfront Farm, 2603 W. Boone Ave., is Thursday, Aug. 13, from 6:30-8:30 pm. Tickets are $5. Visit brownpapertickets.com.

Comforts of home

SWEETIE PIE CAFÉ makes me think of a time when life was slower and simpler, and neighbors dropped by the corner café for the latest news and a bite to eat. While owners Marilyn Blair and daughter Julie Becker don’t actually live on the premises, you’ll feel as though you are dining in someone’s home. The café’s 15 seats are located in several rooms throughout the little house (just off Northwest Blvd. and Ash), with a cozy table for two tucked in one of the nooks. Shelves of games and magazines will make you feel right at home, and Hawaiian-themed artwork from Becker’s time spent living in the islands adds to the homey feel.

The menu is simple, with an emphasis on home-style comfort food. Breakfast (served all day) includes quiche served with potatoes and a biscuit ($8), omelets ($7), oven-baked French toast ($3.50), and biscuits and gravy ($4.50). The light, airy biscuits are a house specialty, drawing praises from diners at the neighboring table. “They’re layered, and I always add a little extra
baking powder,” says Becker, divulging her secret.

The lunch menu includes traditional hot and cold sandwiches (including meatloaf and French dip) served with a cup of soup or side of pasta salad ($7).

A half of a turkey sandwich with a cup of house-made clam chowder ($7) left me with just enough room for a piece of raspberry-rhubarb pie — the main reason for my visit. The tender, flaky crust and tangy-sweet fruit combination was perfect. For $3 a slice or $16 for a whole pie, regular offerings include chocolate cream, pumpkin and fresh fruit, or call ahead and order your favorite.

If you are looking for upscale dining with an extensive menu, then this homey little café is probably not for you. But if you like mouthwatering fruit pie and generous sandwiches served in a friendly neighborhood cottage, give Sweetie Pie a try. Maybe life isn’t so complicated after all. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

Sweetie Pie Café, 1724 W. Carlisle Ave., is open Tue-Sun 8 am-4 pm. Call 328-4458.