Walk into the newly reopened Top Notch Café and you can expect to be greeted with friendly service, a great cup of coffee, and classic breakfast and lunch options with a few twists. You also get to slip back in time.
The Top Notch first opened in 1931 on the corner of Monroe and Mallon, and original art deco touches remain in the renovated space. “Daily people come in with stories from the past,” new owner Don Torbenson says with a grin, “and I just found out that the grandfather of one of our servers used to wash dishes here.”
Torbenson also discovered that early in its history, a previous owner would leave the door open all night long with a hot pot of coffee on for beat cops when they walked by. They came, warmed up and left money on the counter for the coffee they drank.
The coffee is still hot and several notches above typical diner brew, but the door is no longer open 24 hours. Torbenson and his crew open at 7 am during the week (8 am on weekends) and close at 2 pm after the last stragglers from the courthouse have been in for their Reuben or French Dip ($8.25 each).
Order an early breakfast special and $4.95 gets you two eggs, hash browns, toast, and coffee. We like the fact that the bread comes from just across the street at the Alpine Bistro and Bakery, and the hash browns are sliced thick.
Overall the menu highlights comfort food and traditional fare. “We wanted to bring it back to what it used to be,” Torbenson says. But along the way he and his wife Tama also had a little fun. There is Tama’s Jalapeño Burger ($7.95) at lunch, amped-up enough to make you cry, and an omelet packed with… wait for it… sauerkraut, cheese and German sausage.
Torbenson asked Terry Best from O’Doherty’s in the Valley if he could put a Terry original on the menu, and notes that “the people that try it, fall in love with it.” But he adds with another grin that not everyone is willing to try it. You can decide whether you’ll stick to the standards or try a Top Notch adventure, but either way, swing in soon for some good, unfussy food and a little living history in the shadow of the courthouse. — KEVIN FINCH
Top Notch Café, 825 North Monroe St., is open 7 am-2 pm weekdays and 8 am-2 pm weekends. Call 315-5567.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Pho-Tastic
Sometimes the good stuff is right under our noses, like the fragrant soup served by Pho Thanh and Café. This humble eatery serving traditional Vietnamese fare actually was opened five years ago by Sau V. Nguyen, when he relocated to Coeur d’Alene from Spokane.
It took us awhile to discover what others already know: the food is delicious and well-priced (nothing over $9), and most dishes are so abundant you’ll need take-home containers. That may be why Pho Thanh has developed a loyal following, like the family who’d traveled up from the Coeur d’Alene reservation for a hearty meal of things like the No. 28 chow mein noodles with lemon grass chili beef, chicken, shrimp and pork ($9).
For us it was a starter of spring rolls (2 for $3): tender chicken, hints of basil, and spicy, peanuty dipping sauce. Other options are fried egg rolls and fried wontons most diners might associate with Chinese cooking ($3).
Of course we had to try the beef soup or pho bo, which arrived in a large bowl with a side of raw bean sprouts, basil leaves, lime and jalapeno slices. A perfect blend of soft noodles, crispy veggies and tender beef, which arrives surprisingly rare since it continues to cook in the steaming broth (our motto has always been: eat first, ask questions and do research later).
Variations on pho include the addition of meatballs, beef tendon, tripe and even chicken ($7 small/$8 large).
Steamed rice (com dia) and vermicelli-like noodles (bun) are menu staples, topped in numerous variations: lemon grass chicken, beef or pork; beef meatball; shrimp skewer; charbroiled chicken, and fried egg roll ($8.45-$9). Two stir-fried special dishes, wonton soup, and Vietnamese chicken salad round out the menu. Beverages include soda, traditional soybean and coconut drinks in a can and a small assortment of bottle beers ($1-3).
All tables are equipped with dipping sauces — hoisin, sriracha chili, soy, lemon grass chili — so you can adjust the spice of your food, as well as extra plates for sharing, which you’ll definitely want to do as you discover your new favorite. — CARRIE SCOZZARO
Pho Thanh and Cafe, 2108 N. Fourth Street, Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, is open Mon-Sat 9:30 am–9 pm, Sun 9:30 am-7 pm. Call (208) 665-9903. Reservations recommended.
It took us awhile to discover what others already know: the food is delicious and well-priced (nothing over $9), and most dishes are so abundant you’ll need take-home containers. That may be why Pho Thanh has developed a loyal following, like the family who’d traveled up from the Coeur d’Alene reservation for a hearty meal of things like the No. 28 chow mein noodles with lemon grass chili beef, chicken, shrimp and pork ($9).
For us it was a starter of spring rolls (2 for $3): tender chicken, hints of basil, and spicy, peanuty dipping sauce. Other options are fried egg rolls and fried wontons most diners might associate with Chinese cooking ($3).
Of course we had to try the beef soup or pho bo, which arrived in a large bowl with a side of raw bean sprouts, basil leaves, lime and jalapeno slices. A perfect blend of soft noodles, crispy veggies and tender beef, which arrives surprisingly rare since it continues to cook in the steaming broth (our motto has always been: eat first, ask questions and do research later).
Variations on pho include the addition of meatballs, beef tendon, tripe and even chicken ($7 small/$8 large).
Steamed rice (com dia) and vermicelli-like noodles (bun) are menu staples, topped in numerous variations: lemon grass chicken, beef or pork; beef meatball; shrimp skewer; charbroiled chicken, and fried egg roll ($8.45-$9). Two stir-fried special dishes, wonton soup, and Vietnamese chicken salad round out the menu. Beverages include soda, traditional soybean and coconut drinks in a can and a small assortment of bottle beers ($1-3).
All tables are equipped with dipping sauces — hoisin, sriracha chili, soy, lemon grass chili — so you can adjust the spice of your food, as well as extra plates for sharing, which you’ll definitely want to do as you discover your new favorite. — CARRIE SCOZZARO
Pho Thanh and Cafe, 2108 N. Fourth Street, Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, is open Mon-Sat 9:30 am–9 pm, Sun 9:30 am-7 pm. Call (208) 665-9903. Reservations recommended.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Logger hangout
A bar that pays tribute to logging should be described as run-of-the-mill; upscale or pretentious just doesn’t seem fitting for the humble history of backbreaking logging and millwork upon whose foundation much of the Inland Northwest was built.
THE MILL is just such a tribute bar, its dark-paneled walls adorned with historic photos, logging lore, saw blades and assorted beverage advertisements. A few history books on logging are scattered about, and rough-cut logs serve as end tables here and there.
But if you’re envisioning the Snake Pit or White Horse Saloon, kick it up a few notches. Even though the Mill is located on a former mill site, that site is now Riverstone — Coeur d’Alene’s high-end, river-view development along Northwest Boulevard, with condos starting in the $200s. Next door is Starbucks. Nearby is a chi-chi new movie theater and places like Zi Spa.
Inside the Mill, the overall feel is sort of a tastefully appointed man cave. There are darts, shuffleboard and televisions, of course, yet its storefront location, outdoor seating and overall sparse décor keeps it from feeling like a male-only haven.
The menu is mostly finger foods, such as our sweet-hot chicken wings ($7.25), which can be ordered hotter. The seasoned fries ($3.75) can be topped with chili, onions or cheese ($0.50-$1 each). Mozzarella sticks, jalapeño poppers ($6) and onion rings ($4.50) round out the deep-fried appetizer offerings. If you’re not into sharing, try a quarter-pound burger or chicken sandwich ($6.50), or maybe a corn dog and fries ($3.50).
Nothing goes better with griddled food than ice cold beer — the selection includes your basic domestics like Budweiser, but also Sam Adams, Fat Tire, Drop Top, Stella Artois and Deschutes. The best feature on the beer menu was the Red Light Wheat Lager from Wallace Brewing Company, a Silver Valley startup (opened in December 2008) with a growing following and a great sense of humor. — CARRIE SCOZZARO
The Mill, 2360 Old Mill Loop, CdA, is open Tue-Sun 4 pm-midnight. Call (208) 667-6455.
THE MILL is just such a tribute bar, its dark-paneled walls adorned with historic photos, logging lore, saw blades and assorted beverage advertisements. A few history books on logging are scattered about, and rough-cut logs serve as end tables here and there.
But if you’re envisioning the Snake Pit or White Horse Saloon, kick it up a few notches. Even though the Mill is located on a former mill site, that site is now Riverstone — Coeur d’Alene’s high-end, river-view development along Northwest Boulevard, with condos starting in the $200s. Next door is Starbucks. Nearby is a chi-chi new movie theater and places like Zi Spa.
Inside the Mill, the overall feel is sort of a tastefully appointed man cave. There are darts, shuffleboard and televisions, of course, yet its storefront location, outdoor seating and overall sparse décor keeps it from feeling like a male-only haven.
The menu is mostly finger foods, such as our sweet-hot chicken wings ($7.25), which can be ordered hotter. The seasoned fries ($3.75) can be topped with chili, onions or cheese ($0.50-$1 each). Mozzarella sticks, jalapeño poppers ($6) and onion rings ($4.50) round out the deep-fried appetizer offerings. If you’re not into sharing, try a quarter-pound burger or chicken sandwich ($6.50), or maybe a corn dog and fries ($3.50).
Nothing goes better with griddled food than ice cold beer — the selection includes your basic domestics like Budweiser, but also Sam Adams, Fat Tire, Drop Top, Stella Artois and Deschutes. The best feature on the beer menu was the Red Light Wheat Lager from Wallace Brewing Company, a Silver Valley startup (opened in December 2008) with a growing following and a great sense of humor. — CARRIE SCOZZARO
The Mill, 2360 Old Mill Loop, CdA, is open Tue-Sun 4 pm-midnight. Call (208) 667-6455.
Pork and plantains
There is nothing about BLUE ISLAND’S location or décor that does justice to its name. Housed in the Club Edge space on East Sprague, the exposed timber and rock wall interior is more befitting of a hunting lodge than a tropical island paradise.
But don’t let the location put you off. Club Edge still operates the bar, but Rolando Diaz and his wife Doralquis Labrada have taken over the restaurant operations with an extensive menu of Cuban dishes. The Diaz family personally welcomes their guests and is eager to explain their native cuisine to newcomers.
Blue Island describes Cuban food as “a mixture of Spanish, indigenous, African, French and Arabic,” and the menu reflects these multicultural influences with pork shashlik, eggplant roulettes, chicken cordon bleu and simple dishes like Cuban-style ground beef and lamb brochettes. Entrees ($10-15) are served with congri (beans and rice) or potatoes and salad.
Dim lighting at my table (think nightclub) made it difficult to read the menu, but that didn’t put a damper on my crusty, grilled Cuban sandwich with ham, roast pork and Swiss cheese ($6.50) served with house-made French fries and salad. There are 10 choices of grilled sandwiches, including a vegetarian option. My son finished an entire plate of Chatinos — a simple but pleasingly chewy snack of fried plantains. I was disappointed to learn that they were out of Cuban coffee, which I’ll have to try on my next visit because I am still thinking about it.
I satisfied my sweet tooth with the bread pudding, a cinnamon flavored, dense pudding reminiscent of cheesecake. The Cuban flan, creamy and drizzled with caramel, scored high marks too.
Blue Island is unique in Spokane for its diverse menu of Cuban cuisine from traditional snacks to vegetarian dishes and meat brochettes. If you want to try something new and enjoy being treated like family, I recommend a Blue Island get-away. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON
Blue Island, 8122 E. Sprague, is open Tues-Sun 11 am-9 pm, full menu. After 9 pm, sandwiches, appetizers and drinks. Call 926-6921.
But don’t let the location put you off. Club Edge still operates the bar, but Rolando Diaz and his wife Doralquis Labrada have taken over the restaurant operations with an extensive menu of Cuban dishes. The Diaz family personally welcomes their guests and is eager to explain their native cuisine to newcomers.
Blue Island describes Cuban food as “a mixture of Spanish, indigenous, African, French and Arabic,” and the menu reflects these multicultural influences with pork shashlik, eggplant roulettes, chicken cordon bleu and simple dishes like Cuban-style ground beef and lamb brochettes. Entrees ($10-15) are served with congri (beans and rice) or potatoes and salad.
Dim lighting at my table (think nightclub) made it difficult to read the menu, but that didn’t put a damper on my crusty, grilled Cuban sandwich with ham, roast pork and Swiss cheese ($6.50) served with house-made French fries and salad. There are 10 choices of grilled sandwiches, including a vegetarian option. My son finished an entire plate of Chatinos — a simple but pleasingly chewy snack of fried plantains. I was disappointed to learn that they were out of Cuban coffee, which I’ll have to try on my next visit because I am still thinking about it.
I satisfied my sweet tooth with the bread pudding, a cinnamon flavored, dense pudding reminiscent of cheesecake. The Cuban flan, creamy and drizzled with caramel, scored high marks too.
Blue Island is unique in Spokane for its diverse menu of Cuban cuisine from traditional snacks to vegetarian dishes and meat brochettes. If you want to try something new and enjoy being treated like family, I recommend a Blue Island get-away. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON
Blue Island, 8122 E. Sprague, is open Tues-Sun 11 am-9 pm, full menu. After 9 pm, sandwiches, appetizers and drinks. Call 926-6921.
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Greasy pleasures
It’s late. Really late. I was ferrying my friends home when one shouted from the back seat, “I want a burrito!” As weary as I was, I wanted to tell him to shut his mouth and eat something when he got home but… I had a taste for some nachos, too. “Let”s go to the new place,” I shouted over the radio.
The new place, ABELARDO’S, is one of Spokane Valley’s few options for food at 2 am. The Cal-Mex restaurant, started by employees from the small California chain Adalberto’s, keeps its drive-thru open 24-7 and is always offering breakfast. All dishes are made to order so the drive-thru can take as long as 15 minutes.
The cuisine, which owners admit is based off Adalberto’s menu, is a mix of traditional Mexican recipes and fast food staples. For example, Adalberto’s “California” has melted shredded cheese, rice and traditional carne asada but Abelardo’s uses French fries instead of potato chunks.
After negotiations and bartering, we came up with something that resembled an order: two bean burritos ($1.99 each), a shrimp burrito ($3.89), two chicken tacos ($1.89 each), an order of super nachos ($6.29) and extra hot sauce. The final total was still under twenty bucks.
The shrimp burrito was the size of an energy drink and, if thrown with some might, it’d be heavy enough to take out a window. My chicken taco was an overstuffed half oval of grease and love. The slow cooked chicken dripped juice from the shell every time I took a bite.
The stand-out of the night was the super nachos. The house-fried corn ship was topped with refried beans, cheddar cheese, over half a pound of carne asada, a cilantro-heavy homemade salsa, sour cream and guacamole. It was not only a formidable midnight snack but made for a good breakfast the next morning.
Abelardo’s is far from healthy (almost everything will leave a puddle of grease on its wrapper), but in the middle of the night, who cares? — SAM STOWERS
Abelardo’s at 11519 E. Sprague Avenue in Spokane Valley is open 24 hours a day, Mon-Sun. Inside seating is available from 6 am to midnight. Call 924-7485.
The new place, ABELARDO’S, is one of Spokane Valley’s few options for food at 2 am. The Cal-Mex restaurant, started by employees from the small California chain Adalberto’s, keeps its drive-thru open 24-7 and is always offering breakfast. All dishes are made to order so the drive-thru can take as long as 15 minutes.
The cuisine, which owners admit is based off Adalberto’s menu, is a mix of traditional Mexican recipes and fast food staples. For example, Adalberto’s “California” has melted shredded cheese, rice and traditional carne asada but Abelardo’s uses French fries instead of potato chunks.
After negotiations and bartering, we came up with something that resembled an order: two bean burritos ($1.99 each), a shrimp burrito ($3.89), two chicken tacos ($1.89 each), an order of super nachos ($6.29) and extra hot sauce. The final total was still under twenty bucks.
The shrimp burrito was the size of an energy drink and, if thrown with some might, it’d be heavy enough to take out a window. My chicken taco was an overstuffed half oval of grease and love. The slow cooked chicken dripped juice from the shell every time I took a bite.
The stand-out of the night was the super nachos. The house-fried corn ship was topped with refried beans, cheddar cheese, over half a pound of carne asada, a cilantro-heavy homemade salsa, sour cream and guacamole. It was not only a formidable midnight snack but made for a good breakfast the next morning.
Abelardo’s is far from healthy (almost everything will leave a puddle of grease on its wrapper), but in the middle of the night, who cares? — SAM STOWERS
Abelardo’s at 11519 E. Sprague Avenue in Spokane Valley is open 24 hours a day, Mon-Sun. Inside seating is available from 6 am to midnight. Call 924-7485.
Tacos and tequila
Recently opened AGAVE LATIN BISTRO is a partnership between Ian Wingate (owner of the nearby Moxie restaurant) and Sergio DeLeon, owner of DeLeon’s Mexican Deli. Formerly Bluefish and briefly Aqua, Agave’s cool aqua walls and sleek black and chrome furniture give the place a hip, high-tech feeling. Friendly service, candles and miniature cacti on the tables make Agave warm and inviting.
“We use his [DeLeon’s] ingredients incorporated into my style,” Wingate explains. The warm chips are made from DeLeon’s tortillas and accompanied by a demi-tasse of salsa, made from DeLeon’s recipe.
The starter menu ($4-$14) includes grilled smoked paprika prawns, ceviche, and several salads, including a pear and arugula salad with prickly pear cactus vinaigrette. You’ll also find gazpacho and Spicy Tequila Lime chicken soup.
Taco plates ($12-$14) are served with DeLeon’s rustic rice, tortillas and a choice of mild rancho beans or spicy Cuban black beans. For fillings, you can choose from chipotle grilled tofu, ancho grilled chicken, steak or fish tacos. Garnished with lime crème fraîche, fresh peppers and cilantro, the tacos rate a notch above standard Mexican fare for their colorful and artful presentation.
The Wild Boar Chile Verde ($14) was simmered to buttery perfection in a tomatillo sauce with green peppers and cilantro. Accompanied by rice, rancho beans with peppers, warm tortillas and a crunchy cabbage slaw, it tasted as good as it looked. Peruvian Seafood Cioppino, Lobster Paella, tequila-and-cactus-braised short ribs, and duck breast with chorizo sausage risotto round out the menu, with plans to add a late-night tapas menu soon.
Desserts include flan, cheesecake and chocolate cake, made at DeLeon’s bakery.
If you are a tequila lover, you’re in luck. Try the popular bright pink Prickly Pear margarita with cactus juice, or one of Agave’s 25 tequilas, including a caramel-flavored one. Wingate plans to increase the selection to number 100 varieties.
Agave combines DeLeon’s solid Mexican flavors with Wingate’s upscale style. The resulting Latin fusion is a welcome and refreshing addition to Spokane’s dining scene. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON
Agave Latin Bistro and Tequila Bar, 830 W. Sprague, is open Tue-Sat, 4 pm-midnight. Call 473-9180.
“We use his [DeLeon’s] ingredients incorporated into my style,” Wingate explains. The warm chips are made from DeLeon’s tortillas and accompanied by a demi-tasse of salsa, made from DeLeon’s recipe.
The starter menu ($4-$14) includes grilled smoked paprika prawns, ceviche, and several salads, including a pear and arugula salad with prickly pear cactus vinaigrette. You’ll also find gazpacho and Spicy Tequila Lime chicken soup.
Taco plates ($12-$14) are served with DeLeon’s rustic rice, tortillas and a choice of mild rancho beans or spicy Cuban black beans. For fillings, you can choose from chipotle grilled tofu, ancho grilled chicken, steak or fish tacos. Garnished with lime crème fraîche, fresh peppers and cilantro, the tacos rate a notch above standard Mexican fare for their colorful and artful presentation.
The Wild Boar Chile Verde ($14) was simmered to buttery perfection in a tomatillo sauce with green peppers and cilantro. Accompanied by rice, rancho beans with peppers, warm tortillas and a crunchy cabbage slaw, it tasted as good as it looked. Peruvian Seafood Cioppino, Lobster Paella, tequila-and-cactus-braised short ribs, and duck breast with chorizo sausage risotto round out the menu, with plans to add a late-night tapas menu soon.
Desserts include flan, cheesecake and chocolate cake, made at DeLeon’s bakery.
If you are a tequila lover, you’re in luck. Try the popular bright pink Prickly Pear margarita with cactus juice, or one of Agave’s 25 tequilas, including a caramel-flavored one. Wingate plans to increase the selection to number 100 varieties.
Agave combines DeLeon’s solid Mexican flavors with Wingate’s upscale style. The resulting Latin fusion is a welcome and refreshing addition to Spokane’s dining scene. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON
Agave Latin Bistro and Tequila Bar, 830 W. Sprague, is open Tue-Sat, 4 pm-midnight. Call 473-9180.
Here Piggy, Piggy
Spokane’s annual extravaganza of overindulgence is already underway — the six solid days of PIG OUT IN THE PARK began on Wednesday and continue clear through Monday, Sept. 7 (aka Labor Day). Thousands will descend on Riverfront Park this weekend to hear the free music or partake of the beer gardens (three of them!), but the food is the heart of the party, as the name suggests. More than 40 food vendors offer a couple of hundred different food items, from chocolate-covered fruits and ice cream to pizzas and more noodles than you can shake a spatula at. Local vendors including Pizza Rita, Longhorn BBQ, Boehm’s, Azars and Pho Van join the usual selection of traveling vendors to bring food to the masses. Prices this year top out at $9, so hit up the ATM on your way to the park. And arrive hungry. — ANN M. COLFORD
Pig Out in the Park, sprawling across Riverfront Park, is open daily 10 am-10 pm through Monday, Sept. 7. Visit spokanepigout.com.
Pig Out in the Park, sprawling across Riverfront Park, is open daily 10 am-10 pm through Monday, Sept. 7. Visit spokanepigout.com.
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