Wednesday, May 13, 2009

That's Italian

When Italian food lovers dream, they dream of a place like CASSANO’S ITALIAN GROCERY.
And now Cassano’s, having outgrown its longtime location on East Sprague, has a new home: Owner Carl Naccarato relocated the shop to the corner of Mission and Napa in the former Piccolo’s market building. The new location — with triple the space, a commercial kitchen and ample parking — allows Cassano’s to offer more products and services, such as fresh meat and produce, more than 20 kinds of olive oil, a deli counter serving Italian sandwiches, and a new restaurant called THE MISSION BISTRO.

If you like to cook, you’ll be inspired to fill your shopping basket with house-made sausages, fresh pasta, roasted peppers and truffle oil. Don’t forget the Chianti and fresh Italian bread to go with your meal.

If you’d rather leave the cooking to someone else, head for the back of the store and look for the Mission Bistro. The private dining room was recently remodeled by Dave Finney, Naccarato’s partner in both the Bistro and in the store’s catering business, known as David deCarlo Catering. Finney and Naccarato plan to offer cooking classes this fall.

The Bistro’s space is simple and homey, as is the menu: The choices are pizza, pasta and made-to-order deli sandwiches. Our 14-inch pepperoni pizza ($10) arrived piping hot with a chewy scratch-made crust, Italian pepperoni and loads of fresh, deliciously stringy melted mozzarella.

Our server recommended Cassano’s Famous Lasagna ($11): “People from the East Coast say it’s the best they’ve had since they’ve moved out here.” Naccarato’s recipe is a vegetarian version — tender sheets of pasta layered with pesto, five cheeses and a red sauce with a hint of fennel. Served with a warm Tuscan roll and a green salad, it was divine.

The chicken asiago fettucine ($11), with a wild mushroom and truffle cream Alfredo sauce, smelled heavenly as it passed by my table. Maybe next time. — KIRSTEN HARRINGTON

Cassano’s Italian Grocery, at 2002 E. Mission Ave., is open Mon-Sat 8 am-8 pm, Sun 10 am-5 pm. The Mission Bistro, located inside Cassano’s, is open Mon-Sat 11 am-2 pm for lunch, 5 pm-8 pm for dinner. Visit www.cassanositaliangrocery.com or call 747-3888.

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