Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Tiki sun

They blew into town this past winter like tropical winds bringing some welcome sunshine and Hawaiian-style barbecue to mid-town Coeur d’Alene. Then just as quickly, the storm passed and Teriyaki Tiki was closed. Now they’re back, the winds calmer now, as they settle into their recently approved-by-the-city location at Fifth and Spruce (behind the Corner Bar).

TERIYAKI TIKI is the Atteshi family’s latest endeavor after closing the Sunset Grill in Hayden a few years back. Daughter Tiara and mom Aggy are the ever-ready smiles at the counter of this takeout/outdoor-seating-only establishment. They’re joined by dad, Mic.

Aggy’s as likely to interject some of her native Filipino recipes into the mix as she is the Hawaiian fare she grew up on. She makes lumpia, or Filipino egg rolls (three for $4.50), once a week, offering them alongside such Hawaiian staples as kalua pork ($7.50).

The pan-Pacific approach is menu-wide. Hawaiian barbecue is the focus of Teriyaki Tiki, which serves plate lunches with two scoops of steamed, slightly sticky rice and a macaroni-potato salad hybrid. Pork, chicken and beef teriyaki ($7.50) are joined by Korean-style kalbi ribs ($9.25) and Japanese-inspired fried chicken katsu ($7.50).

Other island favorites include Loco Moco: a beef patty topped with egg and gravy ($5.50). And — what Hawaiian lunch would be complete without it? — handwritten signs announce Spam dishes, sometimes over eggs, sometimes marinated and served over a shaped mound of rice (aka, Spam sushi).

Sandwiches are a super deal at less than $5 for your basic hamburger, or choose a chicken katsu burger or a teriyaki pork burger. You almost want to order the mini Pupu platter (chicken katsu, teriyaki chicken or pork) just to be able to say “Pupu” — loosely translated to appetizer.
Save room for dessert. Haupia is a very, very firm coconut-based pudding that behaves like Jello ($2.25). The pineapple includes li hing mui ($2.25), a salty/tangy/sweet dried plum you (try to) suck on — almost as much of an acquired taste as Spam.

Call ahead to place an order and don’t forget to say mahalo (thank you!). — CARRIE SCOZZARO

Teriyaki Tiki, at Fifth and Spruce, Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, is open Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm, Sun 2-7 pm (summer hours). Call (208) 676-0123.

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