A stirring meal

Melissa — who was tending bar, waiting tables and seating patrons — began by handing me the drink list as we settled in at STIR. “This is our drink bible,” she said. But there’s more than martinis and other libations at Stir, which sits tucked into an unassuming strip mall on North Division. Co-owner Kirsten Nell opened the restaurant/lounge because, she says, “I like good food, I like good drinks and we need a little more of that on the north side.”

The menu is “always in flux,” says Nell. The culinary brainchild of Nell and Chef David Lee, it originally included high-end dishes made with duck and quail. Given the current state of the economy, “We’ve now got lower-priced things on there,” assures Nell.

Small plates range from $6 for the Buttermilk Bleu Fries (pomme frites drizzled with buttermilk crème sauce, basil and balsamic reduction) to $13 for the chef’s selection cheese platter, served with fruit, candied nuts and toasted crostini. Half-price “social hour” appetizers ($6-$8) are served from 3-6 pm.

In its simple elegance, the pan-roasted chicken breast ($15) looked and tasted like something I might cook at home — if I cooked at home. The skinless breast was sliced thin, browned on both sides and had the deliciously pungent-spicy aroma of cracked peppercorns. It rested on a framework of perfectly tender-crisp asparagus spears atop a stack of grilled baby red potato quarters, their skins brown and crisp, their flesh meltingly soft and sweet. A full-bodied cream sauce, dotted with bits of fresh chives, finished the dish just shy of a religious experience.
For dessert, I opted for the Chocolate Mudslide ($7): 16 alternating layers of coffee and chocolate ice creams, a mid-layer and crust of crushed Oreos, all dripping with caramel and chocolate sauces. A cup of Craven’s decaf Stir Blend coffee ($2.25) capped the evening.

Can I get an “Amen”?
— M.C. PAUL

Stir Restaurant and Lounge, 7115 N. Division, is open Sun-Thu 3-11 pm, Fri-Sat 3 pm-midnight (or later). Call 466-5999.